GARDEN SIGHT SITE

Crop Rotation

2009-01-14T14:25:00.000-08:00

Crop rotation or Crop sequencing is the practice of growing a series of dissimilar types of crops in the same area in sequential seasons for various benefits such as to avoid the build up of pathogens and pests that often occurs when one species is continuously cropped. Crop rotation also seeks to balance the fertility demands of various crops to avoid excessive depletion of soil nutrients. A traditional component of crop rotation is the replenishment of nitrogen through the use of green manure in sequence with cereals and other crops. It is one component of polyculture. Crop rotation can also improve soil structure and fertility by alternating deep-rooted and shallow-rooted plants.

1 Method and purpose
2 History
3 Effects on soil erosion
4 References

Method and purpose
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Crop rotation avoids a decrease in soil fertility, as growing the same crop repeatedly in the same place eventually depletes the soil of various nutrients. A crop that leaches the soil of one kind of nutrient is followed during the next growing season by a dissimilar crop that returns that nutrient to the soil or draws a different ratio of nutrients, for example, rices followed by cottons. By crop rotation farmers can keep their fields under continuous production, without the need to let them lie fallow, and reducing the need for artificial fertilizers, both of which can be expensive. Rotating crops add nutrients to the soils.

Legumes, plants of the family Fabaceae, for instance, have nodules on their roots which contain nitrogen-fixing bacteria. It therefore makes good sense agriculturally to alternate them with cereals (family Poaceae) and other plants that require nitrates. A common modern crop rotation is alternating soybeans and maize (corn). In subsistence farming, it also makes good nutritional sense to grow beans and grain at the same time in different fields.

Crop rotation is a type of cultural control that is also used to control pests and diseases that can become established in the soil over time. The changing of crops in a sequence tends to decrease the popluation level of pests. Plants within the same taxonomic family tend to have similar pests and pathogens. By regularly changing the planting location, the pest cycles can be broken or limited. For example, root-knot nematode is a serious problem for some plants in warm climates and sandy soils, where it slowly builds up to high levels in the soil, and can severely damage plant productivity by cutting off circulation from the plant roots. Growing a crop that is not a host for root-knot nematode for one season greatly reduces the level of the nematode in the soil, thus making it possible to grow a susceptible crop the following season without needing soil fumigation.

It is also difficult to control weeds similar to the crop which may contaminate the final produce. For instance, ergot in weed grasses is difficult to separate from harvested grain. A different crop allows the weeds to be eliminated, breaking the ergot cycle.

This principle is of particular use in organic farming, where pest control may be achieved without synthetic pesticides.

A general effect of crop rotation is that there is a geographic mixing of crops, which can slow the spread of pests and diseases during the growing season. The different crops can also reduce the effects of adverse weather for the individual farmer and, by requiring planting and harvest at different times, allow more land to be farmed with the same amount of machinery and labor.

The choice and sequence of rotation crops depends on the nature of the soil, the climate, and precipitation which together determine the type of plants that may be cultivated. Other important aspects of farming such as crop marketing and economic variables must also be considered when choosing a crop rotation.

History
Old crop rotation methods were mentioned in Roman literature, and referred to by several civilizations in Asia and Africa. During the Muslim Agricultural Revolution of the Islamic Golden Age, Muslim engineers and farmers introduced a new modern rotation system where land was cropped four times or more in a two-year period. Winter crops were followed by summer ones, and in some cases there was a crop in between. In areas where plants of shorter growing season were used, ie.spinach and eggplants, the land could be cropped three or more times a year. According to some sources, in parts of Yemen wheat yielded two harvests a year on the same land, as did rice in Iraq. Scholars such as Andrew Watson have written of a Muslim agricultural revolution as the Islamic world made significant progress in developing a more "scientific" approach based on three major elements: sophisticated systems of crop rotation, highly developed irrigation techniques and the introduction of a large variety of crops which were studied and catalogued according to the season, type of land and amount of water they require. Numerous farming encyclopaedias, with surprisingly great precision and details, were produced.

From the end of the Middle Ages until the 20th century, the three-year rotation was practiced by farmers in Europe with a rotation of rye or winter wheat, followed by spring oats or barley, then letting the soil rest (leaving it fallow) during the third stage. The fact that suitable rotations made it possible to restore or to maintain a productive soil has long been recognized by planting spring crops for livestock in place of grains for human consumption.

A four-field rotation was pioneered by farmers, namely in the region Waasland in the early 16th century and popularised by the British agriculturist Charles Townshend in the 18th century. The system (wheat, turnips, barley and clover), opened up a fodder crop and grazing crop allowing livestock to be bred year-round. The four-field crop rotation was a key development in the British Agricultural Revolution.

George Washington Carver pioneered crop rotation methods in the United States by teaching southern farmers to rotate soil depleting crops like cotton with soil enriching crops like peanuts and peas.

In the Green revolution, the traditional practice of crop rotation gave way in some parts of the world to the practice of supplementing the chemical inputs to the soil through top dressing with fertilizers, e.g., adding ammonium nitrate or urea and restoring soil pH with lime in the search for increased yields, preparing soil for specialist crops, and seeking to reduce waste and inefficiency by simplifying planting and harvesting. Some disadvantages of this type of monoculture have since become apparent, notably from the perspective of sustainable agriculture and the risk of catastrophic crop failure.

Effects on soil erosion
Crop rotation can greatly affect the amount of soil lost from erosion by water. In areas that are highly susceptible to erosion, farm management practices such as zero and reduced tillage can be supplemented with specific crop rotation methods to reduce raindrop impact, sediment detachment, sediment transport, surface runoff, and soil loss.

Protection against soil loss is maximized with rotation methods that leave the greatest mass of crop stubble (plant residue left after harvest) on top of the soil. Stubble cover in contact with the soil minimizes erosion from water by reducing overland flow velocity, stream power, and thus the ability of the water to detach and transport sediment. For example, wheat stubble consistently leaves a significant mass of plant residue after harvest. Wheat production supplemented with no till or reduced till management systems can typically yield 90% post-harvest soil cover with up to 15 months of stubble retention.

The amount of stubble mass retained over time governs whether a crop will be successful in controlling erosion. Crops with little stubble mass retained over time should not be planted following a plant production system with similar characteristics. Sunflowers for example typically produce less than 40% soil cover after harvest with very little stubble remaining after cultivation. This leaves a significant percentage of the soil susceptible to erosion. However, when sunflower crops are rotated with wheat crops in production, the soils are less prone to erosion because the high-stubble producing wheat crops are followed by the low-stubble producing sunflower crop. A corn – soybean crop rotation in a no till system works similarly. Corn plants leave substantial residue mass after harvest. Soybeans, a relatively low-residue producing plant, following corn will have sufficient cover from the previous crops corn residue to limit soil losses. It is important to avoid mono-cropping low-stubble producing plants when attempting to reduce soil loss.

The additional crop residue added by rotation with crops with substantial biomass will also enhance soil structure. Stubble cover will prevent the disruption and detachment of soil aggregates that cause macrospores to block, infiltration to decline, and runoff to increase. This significantly improves the resilience of soils when subjected to periods of erosion and stress.

The effect of crop rotation on erosion control varies by climate. In regions under relatively consistent climate conditions, where annual rainfall and temperature levels are assumed, rigid crop rotations can produce sufficient plant growth and soil cover. In regions where climate conditions are less predictable, and unexpected periods of rain and drought may occur, a more flexible approach for soil cover by crop rotation is necessary. An opportunity cropping system promotes adequate soil cover under these erratic climate conditions. In an opportunity cropping system, crops are grown when soil water is adequate and there is a reliable sowing window. This form of cropping system is likely to produce better soil cover than a rigid crop rotation because crops are only sewn optimal conditions, whereas rigid systems are sown in the best conditions available.

Crop rotations also affect the timing and length of when a field is subject to fallow. This is very important because depending on a particular regions climate, a field could be the most vulnerable to erosion when it is under fallow. Efficient fallow management is an essential part of reducing erosion in a crop rotation system. Zero tillage is a fundamental management practice that promotes crop stubble retention under longer unplanned fallows when crops cannot be planted. Such management practices that succeed in retaining suitable soil cover in areas under fallow will ultimately reduce soil loss.

References
^ Andrew M. Watson (1974), The Arab Agricultural Revolution and Its Diffusion, 700-1100, The Journal of Economic History, Vol. 34, No.1, The Tasks of Economic History, pp. 8-35.
^ al-Hassani, Woodcock and Saoud (2007), Muslim heritage in Our World, FTSC publishing, 2nd Edition, pp.102-123.
^ Unger, P.W., and McCalla, T.M. “Conservation Tillage Systems.” Advances in Agronomy. Vol. 33. pg. 2-53. 1980.
^ Rose, C.W., and Freebairn, D.M. “A mathematical model of soil erosion and deposition processes with application to field data.” Soil Erosion and Conservation. Pg. 549-557. 1985.
^ a b Sallaway, M.M., Lawson, D., and Yule, D.F. “Ground cover during fallow from wheat, sorghum, and sunflower stubble under three tillage practices in central Queensland. Soil and Tillage Research. Vol. 12. pg. 347-364. 1988.
^ a b c Carroll, C., Halpin, M., Burger, P., Bell, K., Sallaway, M.M., and Yule, D.F. “The effect of crop type, crop rotation, and tillage practice on runoff and soil loss on a Vertisol in central Queensland.” Australian Journal of Soil Research. Vol. 35. pg. 925-939. 1997.
^ Loch, R.J., and Foley, J.L. “Measurement of Aggregate Breakdown under rain: comparison with tests of water stability and relationships with field measurements of infiltration.” Australian Journal of Soil Research. Vol. 32. pg. 701-720. 1994.
^ Littleboy, M., Silburn, D.M., Freebairn, D.M., Woodruff, D.R., and Hammer, G.L. “PERFECT. A computer simulation model of Productive Erosion Runoff Functions to Evaluate Conservation Techniques.” Queensland Department of Primary Industries. Bulletin QB89005. 1989.
^ Huang, M., Shao, M., Zhang, L., and Li, Y. “Water use efficiency and sustainability of different long-term crop rotation systems in the Loess Plateau of China.” Soil & Tillage Research. Vol. 72. pg. 95-104. 2003.

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Your First Garden

2009-01-13T15:42:00.000-08:00

As you watch your garden grow,
even when you don't even know.
If it will produce or not
the vegetables you want a lot.

Trial and error is the game
each year will be the same.
Learning more each passing year
listening to gardeners fears.

Yet it's such a good feeling
down on your knees kneeling.
Digging and planting in the dirt,
sometimes till your body hurts.

Fighting off the all the pests,
along with weeds and all the rest.
Weeds that you always have to hoe,
so we reap what we sow.

Gardening help in many ways
relieves stress as many say.
Kids love to help weed,
thinking they are really needed.

So start a garden this spring,
see all the joy it will bring.
Exercise, veggie, to list a few,
enjoying gardening as others do.

Rita

2009-01-03T09:37:00.000-08:00

SNOW IN PARADISE

This is a picture taken of our greenhouse, it didn't weather the snow storm we had in Paradise(worst one in several years)and we forgot to go shake the snow off the top of it. Shame on us.

Now we wait for the snow to melt and see if we can salvage the greenhouse and to see if any of the plants inside might have survived.

I am just glad that I had already saved seeds from the tomato tree plants and had already dried some of the bhut jolokia peppers that we can harvest seed from.

Next year we will know to be better prepared and not make the same mistakes twice.

Happy Gardening!!!

Design the Perfect Vegetable Garden to Suit Your Dinner Table

2008-12-26T10:52:00.000-08:00

When you are looking to start your own vegetable garden, you have a few decisions to make. First of all, you have to decide what kind of vegetables you want to include. You have to decide how many of each plant type you want to include and you have to decide where to place your garden.

The placement of your garden is the most important part. You want to choose a place that gets plenty of sunlight and you want to make sure that your garden is big enough for the one that you have in mind. Once you have your spot picked out and your seeds in hand, it''s time to design the perfect vegetable garden.

Pick Out A Spot

To choose a spot for your vegetable garden, pick a spot near your house or at least where you can keep an eye on it. You shouldn''t be worried too much about people coming into your garden and messing things up but you want to be especially worried about rodents, pests and other animals who might see your vegetable garden design as some help yourself buffet. Once you have your plot picked out, you might want to line it with chicken wire to keep it safe from those same pests.

The size of your garden is important as you want to make sure that your plants have enough room to grow and flourish. When creating your vegetable garden design, you want to make sure that each seed is placed at least six inches apart. Any less than that and you risk overcrowding, which means that your vegetable garden may not produce as much as you hope.

When you have the spot picked out and you deem it large enough for all the vegetables that you plan to sow, make lines in the soil with your finger or a garden tool. These lines should lead the long ways across the garden, at least six inches apart as stated above. Once you have the lines in the soil drawn, drop your seeds into the divots that you made, again about six inches apart. Cover the holes with soil and water thoroughly. If you wish, you can insert some plant food sticks that you can get at your local home and garden store to give them the extra nutrients they need to grow big and strong.

Make sure you water your vegetable garden thoroughly every day and keep a close eye on it. The most important part of your vegetable garden design is proper maintenance. By paying attention to your plants, you will begin to notice when they are in need of certain things, such as water, certain nutrients and even sunlight.

The perfect vegetable garden design is all about what you are looking for whenever you break ground to plant your seeds. There really is no wrong vegetable garden design. As long as your garden produces and you get the vegetables you set out to grow, you have the perfect vegetable garden design.
Ann Marier has written articles on house and garden topics providing helpful tips and advice. Read all about her latest articles on types of garden design offering a new insight into Garden design

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Six Rose Diseases And How To Treat Them

2008-12-16T16:58:00.000-08:00

Beautiful Arrangement of Roses

By: Lee Dobbins

Roses are beautiful but can be a bit challenging to grow. There are many insects and diseases that can chip away at the health of your roses. He are six symptoms of disease in your roses and how to treat them.

1. Malformed young canes or canes that are stunted

This is a fungal disease which is called powdery mildew. It covers stems bods and leaves with a white powder that spreads in the breeze. The leaves will turn purple and curl. To treat this, spray with Benomyl or Funginex.

2. Black spots on leaves

Aptly named, this disease is usually referred to as black spot. These spots are circular and have fringed edges causing the leaves to yellow. To treat this you want to remove infected leaves and pick up any that have fallen around the plant. You can also buy artificial sprays to treat and prevent black spot.

3. Stunted or malformed flowers and leaves

Malformed leaves and flowers can be caused by spider mites. These little tiny mites can be green red or yellow and usually hang around on the underside of the leaves where they have a good old time sucking the juices. You can try applying Isotox or Orthene to help treat these little pests.

4. Blistered leaves

If you notice the underside of your roses leaves are blistered you may have the disease known as rust. Blisters are an orange red color in turn black in the fall. This disease can live throughout the winter and in spring when new sprouts formidable attack them. To treat this get rid of any leaves that are infected both on the plants and on the ground. Spray Funginex or Benomyl every seven to 10 days for treatment.

5. Flowers which are malformed or do not open

this is another problem with roses that can be caused by bugs called Thrips. These are fain brownish yellow bugs that have fringed wings and damage your plant by sucking the juices from the flower buds. To get rid of them you'll have to cut off the infested flowers. Malathion and Orthene may also be used to treat this problem.

6. Leaves that are weak and mottled or show tiny white webs underneath

Here you may have a problem with aphids. These tiny blogs can be green and brown or red and often hang around in clusters under the leaves and flower buds where they suck juices. Try spraying with diazinon or malathion in on to get rid of them.

If your roses to not have any of these pests or diseases but are still unhealthy looking you might want to look at the way you are fertilizing them. Roses are very hungry and do require fertilization. Talk to your local gardening store to find out what's best for your area.

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About the Author: Lee Dobbins writes for http://gardening.subjectmonster.com where you can learn more about all types of gardening including indoor gardening, container gardening and organic gardening. Get gardening tips to help improve your gardens today!

FIGHTING PLANT ENEMIES.

2008-12-12T17:59:00.000-08:00

The devices and implements used for fighting plant enemies are of two sorts:

(1) those used to afford mechanical protection to the plants;

(2) those used to apply insecticides and fungicides.

Of the first the most useful is the covered frame. It consists usually of a wooden box, some eighteen inches to two feet square and about eight high, covered with glass, protecting cloth, mosquito netting or mosquito wire. The first two coverings have, of course, the additional advantage of retaining heat and protecting from cold, making it possible by their use to plant earlier than is otherwise safe. They are used extensively in getting an extra early and safe start with cucumbers, melons and the other vine vegetables.

Simpler devices for protecting newly-set plants, such as tomatoes or cabbage, from the cut-worm, are stiff, tin, cardboard or tar paper collars, which are made several inches high and large enough to be put around the stem and penetrate an inch or so into the soil.

For applying poison powders, the home gardener should supply himself with a powder gun. If one must be restricted to a single implement, however, it will be best to get one of the hand-power, compressed-air sprayers. These are used for applying wet sprays, and should be supplied with one of the several forms of mist-making nozzles, the non-cloggable automatic type being the best. For more extensive work a barrel pump, mounted on wheels, will be desirable, but one of the above will do a great deal of work in little time. Extension rods for use in spraying trees and vines may be obtained for either. For operations on a very small scale a good hand-syringe may be used, but as a general thing it will be best to invest a few dollars more and get a small tank sprayer, as this throws a continuous stream or spray and holds a much larger amount of the spraying solution. Whatever type is procured, get a brass machine it will out-wear three or four of those made of cheaper metal, which succumbs very quickly to the, corroding action of the strong poisons and chemicals used in them.

Of implements for harvesting, beside the spade, prong-hoe and spading- fork, very few are used in the small garden, as most of them need not only long rows to be economically used, but horse- power also. The onion harvester attachment for the double wheel hoe, may be used with advantage in loosening onions, beets, turnips, etc., from the soil or for cutting spinach. Running the hand- plow close on either side of carrots, parsnips and other deep-growing vegetables will aid materially in getting them out. For fruit picking, with tall trees, the wire-fingered fruit-picker, secured to the end of a long handle, will be of great assistance, but with the modern method of using low-headed trees it will not be needed.

Another class of garden implements are those used in pruning but where this is attended to properly from the start, a good sharp jack-knife and a pair of pruning shears will easily handle all the work of the kind necessary.

Still another sort of garden device is that used for supporting the plants; such as stakes, trellises, wires, etc. Altogether too little attention usually is given these, as with proper care in storing over winter they will not only last for years, but add greatly to the convenience of cultivation and to the neat appearance of the garden.

As a final word to the intending purchaser of garden tools, I would say: first thoroughly investigate the different sorts available, and when buying, do not forget that a good tool or a well-made machine will be giving you satisfactory use long, long after the price is forgotten, while a poor one is a constant source of discomfort. Get good tools, and take good care of them. And let me repeat that a few dollars a year, judiciously spent, for tools afterward well cared for, will soon give you a very complete set, and add to your garden profit and pleasure.

GARDEN PESTS.

If we could garden without any interference from the pests which attack plants, then indeed gardening would be a simple matter. But all the time we must watch out for these little foes little in size, but tremendous in the havoc they make.

As human illness may often be prevented by healthful conditions, so pests may be kept away by strict garden cleanliness. Heaps of waste are lodging places for the breeding of insects. I do not think a compost pile will do the harm, but unkempt, uncared-for spots seem to invite trouble.

There are certain helps to keeping pests down. The constant stirring up of the soil by earthworms is an aid in keeping the soil open to air and water. Many of our common birds feed upon insects. The sparrows, robins, chickadees, meadow larks and orioles are all examples of birds who help in this way. Some insects feed on other and harmful insects. Some kinds of ladybugs do this good deed. The ichneumon-fly helps too. And toads are wonders in the number of insects they can consume at one meal. The toad deserves very kind treatment from all of us.

Each gardener should try to make her or his garden into a place attractive to birds and toads. A good birdhouse, grain sprinkled about in early spring, a water-place, are invitations for birds to stay a while in your garden. If you wish toads, fix things up for them too. During a hot summer day a toad likes to rest in the shade. By night he is ready to go forth to eat but not to kill, since toads prefer live food. How can one "fix up" for toads? Well, one thing to do is to prepare a retreat, quiet, dark and damp. A few stones of some size underneath the shade of a shrub with perhaps a carpeting of damp leaves, would appear very fine to a toad.

There are two general classes of insects known by the way they do their work. One kind gnaws at the plant really taking pieces of it into its system. This kind of insect has a mouth fitted to do this work. Grasshoppers and caterpillars are of this sort. The other kind sucks the juices from a plant. This, in some ways, is the worst sort. Plant lice belong here, as do mosquitoes, which prey on us. All the scale insects fasten themselves on plants, and suck out the life of the plants.

Now can we fight these chaps? The gnawing fellows may be caught with poison sprayed upon plants, which they take into their bodies with the plant. The Bordeaux mixture which is a poison sprayed upon plants for this purpose.

In the other case the only thing is to attack the insect direct. So certain insecticides, as they are called, are sprayed on the plant to fall upon the insect. They do a deadly work of attacking, in one way or another, the body of the insect.

Sometimes we are much troubled with underground insects at work. You have seen a garden covered with ant hills. Here is a remedy, but one of which you must be careful.

This question is constantly being asked, 'How can I tell what insect is doing the destructive work?' Well, you can tell partly by the work done, and partly by seeing the insect itself. This latter thing is not always so easy to accomplish. I had cutworms one season and never saw one. I saw only the work done. If stalks of tender plants are cut clean off be pretty sure the cutworm is abroad. What does he look like? Well, that is a hard question because his family is a large one. Should you see sometime a grayish striped caterpillar, you may know it is a cutworm. But because of its habit of resting in the ground during the day and working by night, it is difficult to catch sight of one. The cutworm is around early in the season ready to cut the flower stalks of the hyacinths. When the peas come on a bit later, he is ready for them. A very good way to block him off is to put paper collars, or tin ones, about the plants. These collars should be about an inch away from the plant.

Of course, plant lice are more common. Those we see are often green in colour. But they may be red, yellow or brown. Lice are easy enough to find since they are always clinging to their host. As sucking insects they have to cling close to a plant for food, and one is pretty sure to find them. But the biting insects do their work, and then go hide. That makes them much more difficult to deal with.

Rose slugs do great damage to the rose bushes. They eat out the body of the leaves, so that just the veining is left. They are soft-bodied, green above and yellow below.

A beetle, the striped beetle, attacks young melons and squash leaves. It eats the leaf by riddling out holes in it. This beetle, as its name implies, is striped. The back is black with yellow stripes running lengthwise.

Then there are the slugs, which are garden pests. The slug will devour almost any garden plant, whether it be a flower or a vegetable. They lay lots of eggs in old rubbish heaps. Do you see the good of cleaning up rubbish? The slugs do more harm in the garden than almost any other single insect pest. You can discover them in the following way. There is a trick for bringing them to the surface of the ground in the day time. You see they rest during the day below ground. So just water the soil in which the slugs are supposed to be. How are you to know where they are? They are quite likely to hide near the plants they are feeding on. So water the ground with some nice clean lime water. This will disturb them, and up they'll poke to see what the matter is.

Beside these most common of pests, pests which attack many kinds of plants, there are special pests for special plants. Discouraging, is it not? Beans have pests of their own; so have potatoes and cabbages. In fact, the vegetable garden has many inhabitants. In the flower garden lice are very bothersome, the cutworm and the slug have a good time there, too, and ants often get very numerous as the season advances. But for real discouraging insect troubles the vegetable garden takes the prize. If we were going into fruit to any extent, perhaps the vegetable garden would have to resign in favour of the fruit garden.

A common pest in the vegetable garden is the tomato worm. This is a large yellowish or greenish striped worm. Its work is to eat into the young fruit.

A great, light green caterpillar is found on celery. This caterpillar may be told by the black bands, one on each ring or segment of its body.

The squash bug may be told by its brown body, which is long and slender, and by the disagreeable odour from it when killed. The potato bug is another fellow to look out for. It is a beetle with yellow and black stripes down its crusty back. The little green cabbage worm is a perfect nuisance. It is a small caterpillar and smaller than the tomato worm. These are perhaps the most common of garden pests by name.

Landscaping Tips for Water Conservation

2008-12-07T10:03:00.000-08:00

By: Carol Stack
Word Count: 489

Many people think that landscaping is a great way to preserve water. On the other hand, most critics challenge this fact by saying that landscaping is the number one water consumer. This is because they believe that the more colorful and organized the garden is, it just has to be consuming a larger amount of water.

Over recent times research has shown that landscaping actually only uses up 2.9% of the overall national water consumption and this could be lowered still if people would just stop to consider the limitation of the water supply.

So how are the excesses in water consumption accounted for? According to some experts, the major cause of unnecessary water consumption in landscaping is when it is not used properly and only the people who carry out improper use of the water can be held responsible for this.

Poor landscaping plans and incorrect irrigation systems are just two of the common mistakes made by people using water when landscaping their gardens or yards.

Many experts state that the natural resource of water can supply up to 67% of the total amount of water used in any given year, so taking this into account we are faced with an immense opportunity to preserve water.

The fact remains however, that gardeners and landscapers are a mind to themselves and make their own decisions in choosing what to do, regardless of any guidance supplied by the experts on how best to preserve water when preparing their gardens.

How can we make a difference? Well, the perfect example would be a water sprinkler set on an automatic timer providing the required use of water for a controlled amount of time. If the sprinkler is set to operate during hours of low temperature, immediate evaporation would not occur and the plants would receive more benefits of the water.

Any reasonably experienced landscaper is aware that the life of his plants does not depend entirely on water alone. Pests need to be done away with in order to maintain the gardens landscaped appearance and to keep the plants healthy.

There are many natural ways to destroy pests, such as encouraging pest-eating bugs to live in your yard. These include ladybugs, stink bugs, and assassin bugs. These various bugs eat anything from aphids and potato bugs to mealy bugs and spider mites.

Another way to discourage pests is to alternate the planting of different species of plant. Pests like certain plants, and if a bunch of the plants are grouped together the pests will have a population explosion. By spacing out the plants, fewer pests are attracted and so there are fewer offspring.

People should always keep in mind that it is not necessary to use a large amount of water to maintain a well landscaped garden or backyard. Water conservation and gardening should go hand in hand, concluding that the use of water should be both efficient and controlled.

Grab more landscaping ideas and tips at http://www.freegardentips.info . You'll also find information on growing vegetables, flowers, and more.
Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com

The Greenhouse Advantage for Seed Starting

2008-11-26T10:35:00.000-08:00

By: Christopher Kline
Word Count: 438

With proper planning there are several advantages that greenhouse enthusiasts have for seed germinating and getting their plants off to a great start.

Jump Start the Growing Season - Just as greenhouse gardeners are able to extend the growing season they can get a head start as well. Many desirable plant varieties cannot be sowed until after the last freeze of the season and in some cases it takes even longer for the ground to warm to an appropriate temperature for optimum seed germination.
In the greenhouse, seed germination can start three to four weeks before the estimated last freeze of the season giving greenhouse gardeners a head start on their open air counterparts. This is particularly important for success with long season vegetables (those that require 70 or more days to produce) e.g., melons, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, corn, carrots and parsnips among others.

Climate Control - Most seeds germinate when the soil temperature is between 68 and 86°F. In some areas the greenhouse may be warm enough for good seed germination on its own, but if not, the sheltered environment of the greenhouse is a perfect place to use inexpensive soil heating cables or electric seed warming trays for starting seeds. An added advantage of the greenhouse for your new seedlings is protection from severe weather like strong wind, rain or unexpected cold that can be devastating to new sprouts. The increased humidity of the greenhouse also helps to provide an ideal germinating environment.

Pest Control - Seeds and young plants are particularly vulnerable to garden pests and predators. Birds in particular love seeds and often times they will dig them up from the ground before your plants even get a chance to sprout. This even happens when using sprouting trays or containers outside. Once seeds are sprouted, young plants are still quite vulnerable to small rodents and insects until they are 8-10 inches tall.
The greenhouse gives plants protection from pests until they are strong enough to have a good chance of survival in the open air garden. An added benefit of the greenhouse is that it provides a wonderful environment for using biological pest control by releasing lady bugs into the greenhouse. Lady bugs will consume up to 1,000 aphids in their lifetimes in both their larvae and adult stages and work well in greenhouse settings.

Now is the Time! - If you have a greenhouse and have not considered starting your plants from seeds you now have all the information and reasons you need to start using this low cost alternative to starting your gardens. Good luck and happy propagation!

Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and sunflower specialist living in Paradise Valley Arizona. He is also an editor for http://www.SunflowerOcity.com The Ultimate Sunflower Site has everything imaginable about sunflowers including great information, links to the best products, sites and discussion boards. You can reach Chris at Chris.Kline@sunflowerOcity.com.

Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com

Garden Site Map

2008-11-25T12:53:00.000-08:00

Your First Garden
Snow in Paradise
Design Perfect Vegetable Garden to Suit your Table
Six Rose Diseases and How to Treat them
Fighting Plant Enemies
Landscaping tips for water conservation
Greenhouse Advantage for Seed Starting
Garden Bugs
Winter Greenhouse
How to grow herbs
Growing plants indoors using hydroponics
Our Kittens the mole and squirrels
Big top ten Organic gardening tips
Enjoy life of Gardening a relaxing sense
Fall Planting
How to deal with Barren Trees
Tulip Bulbs
How to raise strongest most beautiful bulbs
Tips for Flower Gardening
how to grow amazing wildflowers
how to keep butterflies around longer
fall gardening tips and ideas
benefits of gardening
gardening home gardening
growing roses 5 secrets to growing show roses
top 7 common lawn care mistakes
gardening in fall
5 quick tips for better lawns
cooking asparagus fun and easy
grow organic and heal more
orchid growing tips and tricks
How to Install Package of Honey Bees
5 Tips to Make Organic Gardening Easier
Landscape Renovation
Design Perfect Vegetable Garden To Suit
Simple Seed Saving
Gardening Tips you can Use
Gardening-Home Gardening
Amazing Garden Progress
Plant cuttings
Fires in Paradise
Saving Seeds
Our Garden 6-19-08
How to Keep Food Fresh Naturally
Magic of Blueberries
Beans, Beans and more Beans
Our Granddaughter and Garden 6-11-08
Shitake Mushrooms
Preserving Food-Freezing Vegetables
Our Garden
Garden Update
Hand Pollination
Classy Hybrid Pickling Cucumbers
Cucumber Slicing Varieties
Soaps used as insecticides
Temperature and Strawberries
Summer Strawberries
Cantaloupe
Our Garden Updated
Bhut Jolokia peppers update
Eggplants
Growing Cucumbers in home garden
Squash Varieties 4
Squash Varieties 3
Squash Varieties 2
Squash Varieties 1
Squash
Artichoke growing guide
Artichokes
Herb Description, culture, harvesting
Herbs for Beginning Gardeners
History of Herbs
Growing Carrots
Sunflowers
Freezing Sweet, Bell and Hot Peppers
Pickled Grilled Eggplant
Beans, Fresh
Watermelon
Romaine Lettuce receipe
For Whom the Bell (pepper) Tolls
Tabbouleh Wrapped in Romaine Leaves
Romaine Lettuce
Mulch
Which Tomato?
Potatoes
Six Steps to Growing Tomatoes
Our Garden Is Planted
Pepper Plants for Sale on ebay
Useful Tools We Used for our Irrigation System
How to Choose Veg that Perform
Country Taste Tomatoes
Use the Right Light for Seed Starting Success
Six Steps to a Successful Vegetable Bed
The Story Buds Can Tell
Reaction to Eating a Bhut Jolokia Pepper
Return on your Investment
How to Till a Garden
Pruning a Bush Rose
Hot Pepper House
Easy to make Gourmet Sandwiches
Seedling Progress
Onion Trivia
Bhut Jolokia
What is Bhut Jolokia
Interesting History of the Onion
Garden Site 3
Ghost Pepper
Future Garden Site
Small Greenhouse Progress
Our Friend the Brown Bat
Bhut Jolokia Growth update
Bulbs Blooming
Start of Landscaping Garden area
Landscaping the Garden
How does a Greenhouse work
Lettuce
Nutrition-It's a matter of Fact
Garden Inspired
Early Spring Blubs
Tulips Coming Alive
As your Garden Grows
Setting in Vegetable starts
Sowing your Seeds
Planting Vegetables
Transplanting Begins
Organic Alternatives to Pesticides
Garden Update
Cucumbers
Hyacinthus
Easter's Around the Corner
Tomatoes- Diet Nutrition
Country Taste Tomatoes
Sunflowers

Garden Bugs

2008-11-22T08:43:00.000-08:00

For as much as I like most bugs, they undoubtedly have a way of ruining a garden in a very timely fashion. As a child, I would run from the garden to the woods, transplanting as many garden bugs as possible before my mother came out to send them to their final resting cloud in the sky. I always thought it was rather unfair to kill garden bugs. After all, they were just bugs who were hungry and had landed in the garden to eat. How are garden bugs supposed to tell the difference between the regular plants and the garden?

As an adult, however I now understand the vast amount of money that can go into a garden, and I understand that garden bugs have a critical mass population and wiping out a few hundred isn't something that is going to send my soul to hell, so down with the garden bugs.

Fortunately there are some very effective methods of dealing with garden bugs that are inexpensive, non-toxic, and safe for everyone except the garden bug. Depending on the particular garden bug you find yourself plagued with you may very well be able to get rid of your pesky garden bugs without ever having to chemically treat your garden.

I know that slugs are not a garden "bug" per se, except that they are in your garden and they definitely bug you as they slowly destroy all you plants. Personally, I like slugs and do make the effort to remove them before killing them. However, once I am outnumbered, my only option is to send them off to a happy garden bug heaven.

Slugs are very attracted to beer. When killing garden bugs with beer, quality actually does matter. They seem to prefer the Corona or Killian''s type of beer, bug for a garden bug, they certainly like to swing it back. Tupperware containers that are no more than an inch high with about ¾ of an inch of beer on the bottom placed strategically around the garden will attract this sweet and lovable garden "bug" where he will merrily drink himself into a drunken stupor and fall fast into a permanent sleep. It is my belief that if we have to kill the garden bugs, we should do so with as much kindness and thoughtfulness as humanly possible.

Japanese Beetles, the garden bug that loves to murder the rose bushes, quietly rest in perpetual silence in a small jar of olive oil. These garden bugs are simple to scoop into a small jar where they will ultimately fall into a peaceful permanent sleep.

Of course, there are specific plants that will help minimize garden bugs in your garden. Planting Basil next to your ground cover for instance helps deter tiny gnats once the basil reaches maturity. The list is endless. Next time your garden bugs are snacking heavily, check out the vast array of alternative methods of deterring and destroying garden bugs without causing significant harm to plants, pets, children, or other helpful small creatures.
Lanny Hintz writes about Dutch gardens promo, Irises Discount Code and Flower gardens

Copyright (c) 2007 Free Online Library
This article can be reproduced subject to these terms. Syndicate this article. More free articles for syndication

Winter Greenhouse

2008-11-18T10:00:00.000-08:00

Winterizing our Greenhouse

Today we put all of our bhut jolokia pepper plants into our greenhouse. They are late bloomers so we are trying to insulate our greenhouse in order to grow them through the winter.

We also put our tomato trees in the greenhouse, it will sure be nice if we can have fresh garden tomatoes during the cold months. We do not buy tomatoes from the grocery store, they do not taste as good as ours do, not much flavor to them.

Then we went and bought a bale of straw, some more fertilizer, and good soil. We transplanted a few plants that needed it, fertilized them all and insulated the greenhouse with the straw.

Now we wait, we might have to put a grow light in our greenhouse if the weather gets to nasty and our plants need more light and heat.

This is our first winter to try and grow in our greenhouse, just like ever thing else we will just have to learn from trial and error.

Hopefully all will do well!

Rita

How To Grow Herbs

2008-11-15T17:48:00.000-08:00

You can bring your herb garden indoors for the winter, by planting a windowsill garden. Many herb plants grow quite easily in containers and require only minimal care. You'll be snipping fresh herbs in your kitchen throughout the winter.

Here's How:

1.Make sure you have a sunny windowsill where your herbs will survive. A south or southeast window would be perfect if it gets at least 5 hours of sun per day and is away from drafts.

2.Purchase some of your favorite small herb plants from your local nursery.

3.Get a container that is at least 6-12 inches deep. You can plant multiple herbs in a wide or long container or use at least a 6" pot for individual plants.

4.Use a soil less potting mix to avoid soil born diseases. Be sure the mix is light and will be well draining.

5.Put a 2-3 inch layer of potting mix into the bottom of your container.

6.Position your herb plants in the container.

7.Finish filling in with the potting mix, firming gently around the plants. Leave about an inch at the top of the container for watering.

8.Water sparingly. Herbs don't like to sit in wet soil.

9.Feed once a month with a fertilizer labeled for use on edibles.

10.Allow the plants some time to acclimate. Once you see new growth, you can start using your herbs.

Tips:
1.Choose herbs that don't grow too wide or tall. Chives, basil, lavender, parsley, mint and thyme are good choices.

2.Fluorescent lights can be used if you don't have a sunny window. They will need to be placed close to the plants (18") and kept on for about 10 hours/day.
3.Snip and use your plants often to encourage them to grow full and bushy.

4.Never trim more than 1/3 of the plants foliage.

What You Need:

Herb Plants
Pots or containers
Soil less Potting Mix
Fertilizer

Growing Plants Indoors Using Hydroponics

2008-11-12T09:32:00.000-08:00

By: Anne Harvester

The gardening method of growing of plants without the use of soil is hydroponics. This process is commonly used to develop fertile, healthy indoor plants as well as good quality vegetables, fruits and herbs. The plants in hydroponics grow systems absorb the needed nutrients as ions in water or in the case of aeroponics through the air.
If a plant is getting the adequate amount of nutrients, then soil is no longer needed for it to thrive. This is the whole theory behind hydroponic kits.

A complete controlled agriculture system, much like hydroponic grow systems, should use controlled grow lights, the correct temperature, water, CO2, oxygen, pH and nutrients. Using the proper nutrients and the right artificial LED grow lights, any indoor gardener can achieve stunning plants and tasty vegetables.
If you are planning on setting up a hydroponics or aeroponics garden, consider a few simple guidelines on how to be successful. Here are a few tips:
No soil is used but fertilization is still required - Just because aeroponics and hydroponics kits don’t require the use of soil, plants still need supplements. This is what they get from the water or their food. It is what sustains the plants. Make sure your nutrient solution maintains a pH level of 5 to 6 after dilution and that the plants are watered more than three times a day by using a pump and a timer.

Steady temperatures required – The majority of hydroponics gardens are grown indoors so try to keep the best suitable temperature between 71 to 76 degrees Fahrenheit. These temperatures change depending on the different types of plant you are working on and the type of grow lights you are using.
Let there be light – You want to keep your plants somewhere they can receive ample amount of light. LED grow lights work the best. If your hydroponics garden is located where there is not enough light, your plants won’t grow. Invest in a good set of grow lights or LED grow lights. These grow lights emit artificial illumination which is perfect for the growing conditions of your plants.
Humidity is a must - In hydroponics gardening, all you need is a little bit of air. As the temperature rises, air holds the adequate amount of moisture plants need. Another benefit is that since hydroponics is water-based, you really don’t need to attend to the plants all that often since the water is reused.

Starting a hydroponic garden doesn’t require that much time and commitment. It needs a little bit of time, water and the right grow lights to make sure your plants are in condition.

Article Source: http://www.articlesnatch.com

About the Author:
Anne Harvester has a great deal of experience with indoor gardening. Hydroponic gardening is the way of the future. Known to some as “soil less gardening”, hydroponics are proven to grow plants 20-30% faster than their soil grown counterparts.

Our Kittens, the Mole and Squirrels

2008-11-07T09:25:00.001-08:00

Stanley and Stuart Little at younger age

We have two kittens that are four months old, one is pure white except with two light colored patches by each other and the other is pure black. Now we are letting them go outside more often as they are getting older.

Yesterday we realized that they are going to be good hunters. Because we have a vegetable garden and there was a mole tunneling in it. Which caught the eye of our white kitten, who's name is Stanley. He crept up on it as closely as possible then went in for the kill, guess what, he caught it and killed it. Hurray for him, now we don't have the mole tunneling in our garden.

Stanley and Stuart Little ( that's the black kitten's name) have also been chasing the squirrels out of our garden. We have also noticed that they seem to know the path in which each squirrel goes on they journey. They will wait in certain spots in the yard like they know where the best place is to attack they prey.

Well today Stanley was just laying in wait for his target, he didn't kill the squirrel but he did take off a portion of his tail. I just wonder now if that individual squirrel will change his route and take a different path than he has so many times before or will he continue to stay on that same path as always.

By Rita Wimbs

The Big Top Ten Organic Gardening Tips

2008-11-06T09:29:00.000-08:00

By: Vera Pappas
Word Count: 643

By using only organic gardening supplies; your gardening tasks will be easier and more enjoyable.

• Compost, an all natural soil amendment is made through the use of composters. Composters break down organic materials such as leaves, grass clippings, and food scraps to make a 100% organic, all natural soil additive. Composters come in varying shapes, sizes and designs. Research composters and choose one that meets your needs. Making your own natural compost is a great alternative to other organic gardening supplies you would ordinarily have to buy, and it’s free!

• Rain Barrels collect water from your roof and store it until needed. Rain water is softer and chemical free. Rain Barrels are great for keeping your plants healthy and saving water. Many rain barrels are made from reused food drums and recycled plastic, keeping with the commitment to sustainable living. You can collect approximately 675 gallons of rain off your roof from a single rain storm. Stored rain water supplies much needed moisture to your gardens during extreme dry spells where rationing is necessary.

• All Natural and organic fertilizers supplies much needed nutrients to plantings. Natural and organic fertilizers generally have a slow release so nutrients last over time. Natural and organic fertilizers such as liquefied worm poop and tea from composters, are among the top natural and organic fertilizers and an essential ingredient to your organic gardening supplies.

• Push reel mowers are a great way to be green! Push reel mowers use no gas or electric, only your own energy. Push reel mowers are lightweight, easy to use and gives your lawn that golf course look. Owning a push reel mower is an important part of organic gardening.

• Grow native plants. Native plants require less water. They are also naturally more insect and disease resistant than other plants. Healthy, lush gardens made from indigenous plants also make a natural home for birds.

• Container gardening is good for planting your favorite flowers and vegetables when space is limited! Use large containers such as steel buckets and wooden barrels for creative container gardening. Container gardens do not require a lot of organic material due to being enclosed. Many gardening containers such as green pots are all natural, made from all natural elements such as rice hulls and coconut fiber.

• Using only natural and organic gardening supplies such as Insecticidal Soap, Horticultural Oil or Organic Disease Control will keep your garden healthy, naturally. Organic gardening supplies leave no hazardous residue and break down naturally into the soil. Natural predators such as bats, praying mantis and ladybugs are great organic insect controls. Bat boxes are effective for keeping bats nearby and supplies shelter through the harsh winter months. Enjoying and benefiting from organic gardening is dependent upon the use of the highest quality organic gardening supplies.

Mulch your flowerbeds and vegetable garden to retain moisture around plants. Mulch supplies your plants with much needed moisture throughout hot, sunny days. Mulching also keeps weeds away. Apply all natural worm poop fertilizer around plantings when mulching. Your organic garden will love you for it. • Create a bird habitat by placing bird houses, birdbaths and bird feeders in your yard. Birds are fun to watch and will control the insect population in a natural way. Pick a quiet section of your yard to keep a variety of birding supplies to attract birds of your choice. Bird food such as sunflower hearts and suet are great treats.

• Whether you are working on your lawn, flowerbed or vegetable garden, have fun. Remember, all natural supplies will make organic gardening easier and more enjoyable. The following is a list of recommended all natural and organic gardening supplies: composter, rain barrels, organic fertilizers, push reel mower, natural gardening containers, birding supplies, natural homemade compost, These are the best equipment, tools and supplies for keeping your plants, turf and environment healthy.

Happy Gardening!

Vera Pappas is owner of Green Nation Gardens, a web based Eco-friendly Garden Center. She also writes many articles for the purpose of educating people on sustainable living. Visit Green Nation Gardens at http://www.greennationgardens.com

Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com

Enjoy the Life of Gardening A Relaxing Sense of Accomplishment

2008-11-05T09:18:00.000-08:00

Everyone in your family, including your children, will enjoy planting avegetable garden. Even when you include your children, you can still have a very delightful garden in which everyone can enjoy spending time together. Of course, you may want to add some pumpkins, watermelons or sunflowers to your garden since these are things that your children will really enjoy.

Grow A Pizza Garden

There are a lot of ways in which you can go about planting an organic garden, filled with wonderful tasting vegetables. One way that you can do this is by planting a theme garden. For instance, you can plant a pizza garden wherein you can grow all of the vegetables that you would need in order to make a great, homemade pizza. Some of the things that you could grow in such a garden include tomatoes for making the sauce; green peppers, jalapenos and onions for toppings; and various herbs and seasonings such as basil, thyme and oregano.

What You Need To Use In All Natural Gardening

There are some specific garden supplies that you will need to purchase in order to create an all natural garden. Since both rain water and compost are important to your all natural garden, you can easily purchase rain barrels and compost bins that are made out of recycled materials too, which makes these items even more eco-friendly. Of course, there are also natural things that you can use to get rid of insects, deer and other such animals that may be making a meal out of your garden.

While you will need some special supplies in order to create this garden, this is actually a lot more healthy for you and your family. This is also a very inexpensive type of garden since you will not have to purchase expensive chemicals, fertilizers or pesticides that have been commercially produced. In the end you are also going to notice that your vegetables taste a lot better too because this is how nature intended for us to eat our vegetables. You might think that this would make growing your vegetables difficult while gardening, it really does not do so, instead it actually makes it easier for you.

Of course, you might not believe this information at the moment, but after you spend some time growing vegetables in this manner, you will be able to taste the difference. You will also notice that these vegetables are much healthier for you since you will not be ingesting chemicals that your body is not meant to digest.
Jean Rigg loves to garden and is out in the yard from early spring till late fall. She has a very green thumb and and a beautiful garden to match. She shares her love of gardening and many years experience at organic gardening made easy or http://best-garden-now.info/

Copyright (c) 2007 Free Online Library
This article can be reproduced subject to these terms. Syndicate this article. More free articles for syndication

Fall Planting

2008-11-04T19:36:00.000-08:00

By: Veracan

Soon it will be time for fall gardening. Removing the spent annuals, pulling the endless weeds, cultivating mulch and planting fall flowers.

Just because mums are available now (in August), does not necessarily mean you should start today. Growers push an early batch because the retailers have been sitting idle for most of July and August. There are early blooming varieties of Mums and Asters, but generally not this early.

Fall gardening is just that. It feels great to get outside when the temperatures are in the mid 70’s instead of the high 90’s. Fall is the best time to do many, many things in your garden.

Mulch - Fall is a great time to cultivate all the mulch in your beds. Over the season the mulch has a tendency to become compacted. The necessary water and air cannot get to the roots of the plants where it is needed. Use a 3 or 4 tined garden Hoe to turn the mulch.

Fertilizer and weed preventer - Once you have cultivated your mulch, a good organic fertilizer and a weed preventer, such as Cockadoodle-doo organic fertilizer and Cockadoodle-Doo corn gluten weed preventer is a great fertilizer for your plants and shrubs and a natural weed preventer to keep those winter weeds away.

Plantings - The fall season is the best time to plant trees and shrubs. As the temperatures are in a cooling pattern, trees and shrubs are less likely to go into shock after transplanting. They take root more easily, because the plant is not working so hard to keep the foliage from becoming stressed due to the heat. Many trees are dug in the fall. To get trees that have been freshly dug, go to your local nursery (not big box store) in October. Ask the nursery salesperson if they are getting any fresh trees for the fall. On the East Coast, trees normally get dug in October, depending on the weather. If all you can find are trees that were dug in the spring, ask for a discount if they are already not on sale. No Nursery wants to keep too much stock over the winter. There is too much loss. When you do plant shrubs and trees in the fall they still require water, mulch and TLC. Plant your fall flowers in mid to late September so the color lasts well into the fall. Plant your bulbs late in the fall, so they don’t start to grow. Tulips and Daffodils not to mention the dozens of other spring blooming bulbs will do best planted in early November once the temps are going to stay cold.

The Lawn - Fall is the absolute best time of year to overhaul the lawn. Get a soil test to check the Ph of the soil. Lime if necessary. Aerating and or thatching are best done in the fall. Aerating is the process of making holes in the lawn, about 2 inches deep, so water and air can get to the roots of the turf. Thatching is the process of getting rid of the “thatch” or dead build up that can choke out the good turf and prevent water and fertilizer from reaching the roots of the turf. Once you aerate or thatch the lawn, I would recommend over seeding and fertilizing. Thatching the lawn will leave bare or thin areas in the lawn, if you do not over seed, the weeds will just take over. Once you have over seeded and fertilized it is a good idea to get that seed covered, to keep it from drying out between watering and from becoming bird food. Straw is a good cover, except you need to pull it up. Peat moss is a good cover and you don’t have to pull it up. A reusable grass germinating mat is also great. The grass germinates faster because it generates warmth and allows water to flow through, yet still protecting it from critters. A good organic fertilizer will get the turf through the winter without becoming stressed.

Fall is also a great time to prune your trees and shrubs. Give them a good haircut so they keep their shape. When they flush out in the spring they will be nice and dense, not stringy.

Take time to enjoy your fall gardening. Working in the yard this time of year will ensure you of a beautiful and lush spring season.

Article Source: http://www.articlesnatch.com

About the Author:
This article may be reproduced and/or distributed for the purpose of education only, and may not be changed in part or whole. This article was written by Vera Pappas, Owner of GreenNationGardens.com, suppliers of unique and eco-friendly garden supplies.

How To Deal With Barren Trees

2008-11-03T09:03:00.000-08:00

By: Jess Shaw Email Article
Word Count: 676

One of the most frustrating things that can possibly happen to someone who has slaved for hours and hours in growing a fruit tree is the unexplainable barrenness that can sometimes occur when there should be a plethora of fresh fruit. I know this from experience. My neighbors all consider me the gardening guru because of my extensive knowledge. But this is only because gardening has been my passion for years and years, and like a sponge I have accumulated so much information in my mind. My learning has also come from past experiences with failure. For about 5 years after I started planting fruit trees, I did not see a single fruit for all my labor. I was nearly ready to give up, until I met who I think is truly the guru of gardening.

I was in the gardening store, looking for some sort of new fertilizer to put my hope in for my quest to obtain fruit. I don't know if there was a look of desperation in my eyes, but a kindly old man came up and started speaking with me. He introduced himself as Ralph, and for some reason I opened up to him and told him about all of my difficulties. I've never been the type to spill all my problems on anyone who asks, but Ralph seemed like such a nice fellow that I just couldn't help it. And I'm glad I did, because what he taught me truly helped me to get my fruit trees in gear and start producing.

I learned that generally, the inability to produce can be caused by a number of factors. Sometimes the tree is simply too young; If your tree is less than four years old, you shouldn't exactly expect it to be producing yet. If it has reached 4 years and you still have seen no sign of fruit, then you should start to consider other factors that might be causing the barrenness.

If the tree is undergoing any type of water stress (this can be poor drainage, too much water, or too little water), then it will have trouble growing. If you suspect this is the case, you should evaluate your own watering techniques and compare them with the needs of the tree to see if you are causing water stress. Also always be on the lookout for any diseases or pest damages. If your tree is constantly being molested by all kinds of little creatures, then you can't expect it to be lively enough to produce fruit.

If your tree blooms but still doesn't produce any fruit, this could be because of cold temperatures during the bloom. The coldness damaged the flower bud or damaged the baby fruit. Aesthetically the tree may look fine, but the inside could be damaged beyond any hope of ever seeing fruit. Unfortunately there isn't much you can do in this case except for wait until next year and hope that it doesn't happen again. If the tree's pollination process has not been fully completed, it could have troubles growing fruit. If you planted different varieties, you may find that the requirements are different than you had originally thought and they were incompatible. In this case you need to replant the correct combinations.

Once I evaluated the conditions of my tree and everything that has occurred in its life, I realized that not only had I cross pollinated slightly incorrectly, but I was also giving my tree too much water. After I fixed these problems, I had learned my lesson and I have not had any trouble bearing fruit since then.

So if you are struggling with a plant that is not being cooperative, you should consult an expert gardener. If you can find a gardening mentor like mine that is willing to teach you everything they know, then you should be able to get your garden on the right track with no problems.

To learn about the oldest tree and the aspen tree, visit the Tree Facts website.

Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com

Tulip Bulbs

2008-11-01T09:20:00.000-07:00

TULIPS

By: Chris And Aliso Clarke
Word Count: 605

Tulip bulbs originate from Europe. Asia and the Middle East and there are over one hundred species.

Genus; Tulipa (from the Turkish tulbend, a turban, in allusion to the shape of the flowers: or from the Persian thoulyban)

Family: Liliaceae

The Tulip is one of the most brilliant blooms for the flower garden during the spring and early summer months.

They are mostly single-flowered, but it is not unusual to find individual plants in large collections sometimes with three to five flowers on one stem.

They should be grown in as large quantities as space will allow. Tulip bulbs can be purchased by the hundred nowadays, without breaking your bank.

The individual blooms last a long time in perfection, and make an ideal cut flower for indoor displays.

They are always best cut either in the evening before dusk or early in the morning before the sun causes the petals to expand.

Tulips flourish in any fertile and well-drained soil.

You should plant the Tulip bulbs 10cm (4inches) to 15cm (6inches) deep and the same distance apart from each other.

The best time for planting, in the UK, is from the end of August to November (late autumn to early winter).

Make the holes with a blunt dibber or trowel, or dig out drills, plant the bulbs and recover with soil.

Although a patch of mixed Tulips looks handsome enough, it is on the whole better to keep each variety by itself.

Some varieties have long stems and some short, and if planted together the result will be uneven and definitely unsatisfactory.

Two or even three kinds can be used in the same planting, but you will need to make sure the tallest are planted at the back.

Warm open airy and sunny positions are ideal, but they must be sheltered from violent winds.

Some varieties can be grown in partial shade.

They should never be planted under trees or shrubs, near walls or in any deep shade.

For dazzling spring and early summer displays grow them with spring flowering plants, such as Forget-me-nots, Polyanthus, Wallflowers, Double white Arabis, Yellow Alyssum, Aubrietias, Primroses, mossy Saxifrages, Pansies and Violas.

Grown in patio pots and tubs they make an excellent spring display. They are also ideal in window boxes where they can be seen from the inside, especially kitchen windows or other windows of rooms you spend a lot of time in. They will brighten up any spring day!

Tulip bulbs are easily propagated from offsets which are simply detached from the parent bulb and planted as soon as possible in to pots where they will be ready to plant out next season.

Tulip bulbs that are planted in autumn are not the same bulbs which are lifted the following June or July.

The original bulb vanishes in producing leaves, flowers, next year's bulb and offsets.

The next year's bulb is usually fully formed, with roots of it's own, by the time its parent begins to flower. From its side is produced a smaller bulb or offset.

Tulip bulbs can be left in the ground for two or more years and can be planted overhead with annuals such as China Asters, French and African Marigolds, Clarkias, Gaillardias and many others.

But it is best to lift the bulbs every year after flowering. They should be cleaned and stored on dry shelves in cool places free from damp and frosts. They will be ready for planting next August/September.

And don't forget to plant out the offsets you potted last year. More plants free for life!

Chris and Alison are successful and experienced gardeners specializing in plant propagation. For all the information you need on propagating and growing your favorite gardening plants successfully visit www.plants-free-for-life.com

Article Source: http://www.ArticleBiz.com

How To Raise The Strongest Most Beautiful Bulbs

2008-10-30T00:36:00.000-07:00

BULBS

By: Louanne Baelde
Word Count: 615

by Louanne Baelde

Bulbs are your best bet for success. It's almost impossible to make a mistake because all the nutrients that the flower needs, are in the bulb. What you may find difficult, is actually choosing which bulbs you want.

This article will help you select healthy bulbs and will give you tips on how to get them ready, from preparing the soil, fertilizing, and planting.

Selecting Healthy Bulbs

The secret to a fantastic flower garden is choosing high-quality bulbs. Make sure that you always buy your bulbs from a reliable source, whether you are shopping from a catalog, outlet or local store. Even if the bulbs are a little more costly, you will save money on the long run, if the source is a good one, than simply searching for the best bargain.

Because the bulb stores the energy in the bulb (in the form of starch,) larger bulbs may produce larger flowers. This does not mean however, that you should buy only large bulbs. Don't hesitate to buy smaller ones as well from a reliable source. These smaller bulbs may just need a season or two to catch up to the larger ones. If you want to have spectacular blooms this year, then buy the larger bulbs.

If you're buying your bulbs from a local store, inspect them carefully. They should be firm and not have any cuts, blemishes or spots on them. They should not feel dry or light, but more on the heavy side for their size. The basal plate (where the roots emerge) should be solid and firm. It's okay for the bulbs to have loose skin or little nicks. This would not affect their development in any way.

Getting Ready

It's always important to choose the right spot for your bulbs, whether it be inside or outside. You probably know about the differences in planting in the garden; how certain plants will thrive better under certain conditions than others.

When you select your location for your new bulbs, try to think about its needs and where it may do best. Don't forget that even a few feet can make a huge difference with levels of light. What may be suitable lighting at the edge of your shrubs may not be suitable over by the corner of your house, even if it's only a small jog away.

Preparing the Soil

Except for Siberian irises, most bulbs prefer loose, porous soil because they need to have good drainage. If your soil does not drain well, improve it by adding nutrients, raising the beds, or installing drain lines.

Almost any soil can benefit from organic materials, especially sandy and heavy clay soils.

Fertilizing

Mix bone meal or superphosphate into the soil at the bottom of each planting hole. Because phosphorus does not move easily; it must be planted deep enough to allow the roots to reach it.

Planting

Try to plant your bulbs as soon as you can when the weather permits and is suitable for planting. If you can't plant them right away, store them in a cool place such as your refrigerator. Never store them in closed bags as they might rot. Bulbs need to breathe! Open the bags or place them instead in paper ones.

Most bulbs are planted at a depth three times their diameter. It's easier if you dig up a larger area at the proper depth, set them inside the hole, and then cover them.

For a large data base of extremely helpful gardening tips and gardening resources, please visit http://www.EZ-Gardening-Tips.com.

Louanne welcomes you to visit http://www.EZ-Gardening-Tips.com for a large data base of extremely helpful gardening articles and gardening resources.

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Tips For Flower Gardening

2008-10-29T10:05:00.000-07:00

By: Tian Xiangyu
Word Count: 479

Flower gardening can allow you to express your creativity, to get closer to nature, and to further enjoy being human. Here we present a few special flower gardening tips to help you be a more effective and creative flower gardener.

Plant the best flowers for your space. It's important that you work with nature and not against it. Don't overwhelm a small space with a large number of plant species. Select just a few so your flower garden does not look cluttered. You should plant sun loving flowers in a sunny location, shade loving flowers in a shady location. By selecting plants that are well-suited to your growing zone, as well as the area of your flower garden, you'll have to do a lot less work and make your flower gardening much more rewarding. Space the plants to allow for their mature size.

Prepare for the soil. Producing gorgeous flowers requires good soil, so make sure your soil is healthy and rich. Good soil means good roots. Your flowering plants need healthy roots to support and nourish the stems, foliage and flowers. Loosen the soil down about six inches for annuals, ten to twelve inches for perennials. Mix in organic matter such as compost. Check the pH to see if you need to add lime or sulfur to adjust the pH.

Flower gardening requires the right tools. This means, not only, your trowels, shovels and hoes, but also fertilizer, soil amendments and watering aids. Having the right tools will make your flower gardening easier and more enjoyable.

It's important to prune flowers for continued growth. This pruning includes dead-heading and cutting flowers back for inside arrangements. To deadhead a plant, you need to simply snip the dead or dying bloom off the mother plant. By removing the flower head, you keep the plant from focusing its attention on the creation of seeds, which will form in the dead flower head.

Use best fertilizer for flowers. You can use a general purpose granular fertilizer or a slow release granular fertilizer with an analysis of 10-10-10 or similar. Read and follow the label directions for how much to use. Never use more than the amount on the label. Over-fertilized plants are more prone to pests and diseases; if in doubt, use less.

Water Flowers Correctly. Watering flowers according to their specific needs is essential to successful flower gardening. Most flowers prefer soil that is evenly moist yet well drained. When you do water, apply it slowly and thoroughly. To be effective, the water must soak down to the deepest roots. It's best to water early in the day to prevent evaporation and leaf-burn.

Follow the above tips to grow a healthy, beautiful flower garden overflowing with buds and blooms of all kinds all season long.

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How To Grow Amazing Wildflowers

2008-10-28T08:15:00.000-07:00

By: Louanne Baelde

Landscaping with wildflowers is becoming increasingly popular. These wonderful displays of beauty are incredibly self-sufficient. Wildflowers dazzle your gardens with sprays of color with a powerful endurance not often noted in domesticated garden flowers. No need to worry about soils of low fertility; wildflowers adapt wonderfully in these types of soil. Meadow gardening is becoming quite popular with its native wildflowers and non-competitive grass. Combine these two to create a panoramic garden of beautiful colors and shapes. Natural habitat will love it too! Can you think of a better way to relax than to stroll amongst paths of endless color and natural beauty?

Wildflowers are low in cost as they reseed themselves and bloom again the following year. They are also easy to maintain as they basically need no fertilizing or trimming, and require little water.

How To Plant Wildflowers

Site Selection

For best results, choose a location where there is full sunlight.

Soil Preparation

To prepare small areas for your wildflowers, start first by removing the weeds already in your garden. This should be followed with raking or roto-tilling the soil.

For large areas, mow the plants or foliage as short as you can and then follow this step by using a flail mower or harrow. This will allow you to break up the top two inches of the soil.

Make sure to water these areas several times during the first two or three weeks. This will encourage the weed seeds to germinate. After a few more weeks, spray the weeds with Clear-It and remove all of the dead plants. Wait at least one to two weeks before you plant the wildflower seeds.

It's actually better not to fertilize the soil for your wildflowers, as they do best in low-fertility soil. High nitrogen soils increase the number of weeds in your wildflower garden and diminish the view of your flowers.

Planting Time

The time to sow is in the Spring. You can plant your wildflowers in the summer if there is a lot of water available, but your planting will not continue the following year, unless it is planted about 8-10 weeks before the predicted frost.

It is alright to plant later in the fall; wildflower seeds will begin to grow in the spring. The disadvantage of planting at this time is that the warmer weather conditions and rain could cause the seed to germinate and then may die during the winter from the freezing. There is also the possibility of the seeds being eaten by birds when they are sitting on the ground for longer periods of time.

Planting Methods

Because of the huge difference in sizes of the seeds, blending fine sand and vermiculite (2:1 sand to seed) is recommended for wildflowers. This will allow more even distribution.

Hand-scattering the seeds in small areas, works very well. Cover up the seed by raking it in to about a depth of 1/8-1/4 of an inch. Do not cover the seeds too deeply, or it will fail and your work will be all for nothing.

Post Planting Care

You must keep the soil, where the seeds are planted, moist for at least 4-6 weeks and water if necessary to encourage germination. As the plants gradually begin to grow, you can water less. Many wildflowers need little water to coexist, but they still need a fairly adequate amount in order to germinate.

Seedling should start to appear in 2-3 weeks and you should see your first flowers in about 6-10 weeks.

Around the middle of October, when most of the flowers have finished blooming, you can mow the area to a height of about 4-6 inches. This will help to disperse the matured seeds for the following year.

Add new seed the following spring, to discourage weed growth and to establish the planting.

For a large data base of extremely helpful gardening articles and gardening resources, please visit http://www.EZ-Gardening-Tips.com.

Louanne welcomes you to visit http://www.EZ-Gardening-Tips.com for a large data base of extremely helpful gardening articles and gardening resources.

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Benefits of Gardening

2008-10-27T09:00:00.000-07:00

MY OWN GARDEN

By: Tian Xiangyu
Word Count: 419

If you have a garden in your home, spending a bit more time in it can do you good. And you don't need to have a large garden to enjoy the benefits of gardening.

Gardening provides the regular physical exercise. It's just as effective as going to a gym, but much cheaper. All that digging, shoveling, raking, composting, and other garden activities are extremely effective in burning fat and improving blood circulation.

Gardening requires you to use your head and your creativity. The time spent planning the garden and researching different plants is a great brain workout. Gardening gives us a chance to be creative. You can let your personality shine through in your garden.

Gardening is also a great stress-reliever. In the midst of your daily grind, meeting deadlines and the many other tasks that make up your day, try to sit out in your garden and enjoy the sunshine and fresh air. This can do wonders for your well being. The beautiful colors found in the flowers may also have calming effects on one's mood.

Gardening connects you with nature and the rhythm of life. Gardening requires you to live in garden time. We all could use a lesson in slowing down. Studies have revealed just viewing a garden or nature has healthy psychological benefits.

The relationships that develop, between plants, and people, and the basic human need of watching things grow, creates a sense of excitement. In many cases it becomes a source of therapy for people with emotional problems.

Gardening also provides a chance for you to give yourself some "alone time" - time to pray, meditate, and simply clear out your mind. Take in the fresh air, get some sunshine, and commune with nature. Gardening gives you a sense of accomplishment and independence, as well as a closer relationship with nature that working with soil and its produce so often provide

Growing your own produce is not only more cost-effective, but you are assured of a fresh harvest with something healthy and delicious for every meal. We can not ignore the fact that, in most cases, the produce you buy in most food stores is more expensive then what it would cost you to grow your own vegetables, which when harvested, is a much better product.

As you can see, the benefits of gardening are not restricted to people of a certain age. Anyone from kids to the elderly can reap the benefits of gardening.

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Fall Gardening Tips and Ideas

2008-10-26T19:24:00.000-07:00

OUR GRANDMOTHER'S GARDEN
IN SALEM,OREGON 2008

By: Joanne Jones
Word Count: 686

Most people focus their attention on their gardens during late spring and summer. But fall is an important time for gardening as well. Not only is it a good time to prepare for winter, but you can still enjoy the plants in your garden and even add more plants if you wish to. Here are some things that you can do in your garden in the fall.

1: Add Some Plants

Even though it is fall, you can still plant things in your garden and your yard. Icicle pansies love the fall weather. Even with the cooler weather, they will bloom late into the season. Best of all, if you leave them in the ground over the winter, they will start to bloom again in early spring.

Trees and shrubs can still be planted in the fall. Evergreens should be planted about six weeks before the first frost of the season. Deciduous plants however, can be planted at anytime, as long as the ground isn't frozen. Be sure to read the labels on the trees and shrubs before you buy them and make note of how large the plant will grow. The plants may be small when you first buy them, but they will grow very quickly in just a few years. As well, the labels will often state what colour the leaves of deciduous plants will be during both the summer and the fall, giving you the perfect opportunity to add some colour during the fall months.

Six to eight weeks before the first frost of the season is the perfect time to plant bulbs in the ground. They will lie dormant all winter long and bloom in early spring, providing a splash of colour that will be greatly appreciated after a long winter. Make sure to follow the directions on the packages for how deep and far apart to plant the bulbs, in order to ensure that all the bulbs will bloom in the spring.

2: Remember To Water

Even though it's fall and the weather is cooler and possibly wetter, your plants still need water. The water will keep summer plants alive longer and nourish fall plants that keep your garden full of life during this season. As well, evergreen trees need water so that they can continue to grow during the fall, even if it is at a slower rate than they grew during the summer months.

Before the weather drops below the freezing point, make sure to disconnect all hoses and drain them of water. Roll up the hoses and store them away for the winter. Next, turn off the water to outdoor taps and then drain them as well. This will prevent the water from freezing and the pipes from bursting. If that happens, you could be facing a large flood and a messy clean up.

3: Rake The Lawn

It's important to rake up the leaves on your lawn because when the leaves become wet, they will mat and become very heavy. Leaves that have been raked up can be used as mulch, compost or as both. To use leaves as both mulch and compost, first harvest the food crops from your garden. Next, place the leaves on top of the garden. They will stay there all winter long and protect the soil from erosion and the harsh winter cold. In the spring, the leaves become compost when you till both the leaves and the dead plants into the ground.

4: Prepare For Winter

Get ready for winter by bringing everything indoors. Take a careful look at your yard and determine what needs to be brought inside for the winter. Look at plants in containers, furniture, tools, statues and everything else in your yard. Stone statues are fine to leave outside, but fountains will need to be drained and wrapped in a protective tarp. Tools need to be cleaned, oiled and put away into storage.

A lot of the work in the fall might seem tedious or even hard work, but it is well worth the rewards you will gain in the spring.

Please visit The Gardener's Escape at http://www.thegardenersescape.com/Articles/Articles.htm for more gardening tips and tricks. While you are there, check out our shopping pages at http://www.thegardenersescape.com/Shopping/Gardening/GardeningTools.htm for the latest gardening tools that are sure to make your gardening tasks easier and quicker.

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How To Keep Butterflies Around Longer In Your Gardens

2008-10-25T09:26:00.000-07:00

By: Louanne Baelde

In order to keep butterflies in your gardens longer, you need to provide the right habitat for them to stay.

Butterflies have different life stages which need certain foods to survive. For example, some eat carrot, dill and parsley, cabbage, sunflower, clover and alfalfa. Some shrubs such as lilacs and certain trees like birch, ash, oak, willow and elms also provide larval food.

Nectar plants not only provide food for the butterflies, but also provide cover. Nectar plants include important vitamins needed from the plant food to grow and survive. Without the nectar from the plant food, they will most likely move elsewhere. Flowering plants not only provide important nectar and vitamins, but also supply cover. Butterflies also need a place to lay their eggs. Later fall flowers do not have the amount of nectar that earlier spring or summer flowers have, so by providing many more flowers at their convenience at this time of the year, will allow them to remain in your landscaping much longer. Keep in mind that this does not mean that double flowers will attract more butterflies. Double flowers often have less nectar than single flowers and access to the nectar is much deeper and more difficult for the smaller species.

Flowers that have many flower clusters such as the phlox, black-eyed susans, blazing stars and zinnias not only provide nectar, but provide a great landing place for the larger butterflies. Larger butterflies live longer than smaller ones. Small butterflies live only about a week or two, while larger butterflies such as the Monarch may live for up to nine months!

Remember, just like other things in life, it’s not the size that will determine the quantity or quality. Many herbs that are grown in the garden have tiny little flowers, but have really high amount of nectar.

Butterflies will often sleep at night under large leafs or in rock crevices. So be sure to have other larger leaf foliage and rock gardens as well to keep them safe and comfortable.

If you keep your garden well-fertilized, you are most likely to have healthy plants, which in turn will make much more pleasant surroundings for your beautiful flying friends.

Don’t forget that butterflies are near-sighted, so have lots of larger bunches of flowers, even many groups of different colors of flowers, so that the butterflies may find them. Also, try cutting some of the stems back a little in the spring, to produce more flowers.

There are around 20,000 different butterfly species in the world. Wouldn’t it be nice to keep a few for a longer period of time in your area?

Louanne welcomes you to visit http://www.EZ-Gardening-Tips.com for a large data base of extremely helpful gardening articles, gardening videos and gardening resources.

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Gardening Home Gardening

2008-10-24T12:20:00.000-07:00

Over the last few years home gardening has become an increasingly popular past-time and hobby. In fact, studies show that home gardening is at an all time high in America right now. In the United States 8 out of 10 households take part in some type of home gardening activity. Obviously from the number of people that are doing it, home gardening is one of the most popular recreational activities in nation.

Over the last few years home gardening has become an increasingly popular past-time and hobby. In fact, studies show that home gardening is at an all time high in America right now. In the United States 8 out of 10 households take part in some type of home gardening activity. Obviously from the number of people that are doing it, home gardening is one of the most popular recreational activities in nation.

Most people that try their hand at home gardening plant flowers; at least they start out planting flowers anyway. Roses will probably be the first thought into any gardeners mind, but roses will take extra time and work, and should probably be left to those who have gardened before. When planting flowers many choices are available, such as bulbs, perennials, and annuals.

Edible plants are another big thing in home gardening. Perhaps the best thing about edibles is the reward of eating them. The list of edible plants that gardeners can grow at home is endless. Some of the most common edible plants in the vegetable arena are, potatoes, peas, corn, carrots, squash, and cucumber. Many gardeners opt for fruits, such as, watermelons, tomatoes, peaches, plums, apples, pears, and apricots. Small fruits, such as strawberries, blueberries, and raspberries usually require less work and less space, making them much more feasible for home gardening. Herbs, most often used as spices in cooking, are growing in popularity every day; some of the most grown include basil, thyme, oregano, parsley, and cilantro. One of the most important things to watch for when planting edibles is insects and disease, after all, you don''t want to miss out on the feast you will get to enjoy from healthy plants.

Many people don''t realize it, but landscaping is a form of home gardening. Landscaping covers many different areas and forms of gardening. You can even classify mowing your lawn as landscaping! Keeping in the line of grasses, landscaping nearly always involves decorative grasses, and the great thing about them is they don''t take much work for upkeep. Types of grass include monkey grass, pampas, buffalo grass, flame grass, and ornamental millet. Landscaping is not just limited to plant life, but also includes anything done to a yard for decoration, such as adding rocks or stones, putting a small pond, statutes, or a waterfall.

There isn''t much difference between home gardening and gardening anywhere else. Plants still need to be planted in a good location. The plants still need water and they still need the same nutrients. Home gardening shouldn''t cause anyone to get nervous. If you do decide to try homing gardening and finding out that you don''t have a green thumb, don''t get discouraged. Get some information, read up on gardening, and try it again the next planting season.
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Growing Roses--5 Secrets to Growing Show-Quality Blooms,

2008-10-23T09:43:00.000-07:00

By: David Leache
Word Count: 749

My interest in growing roses is always re-charged when I get to visit my local rose show,and whenever I attend one of these annual events I like to take another rose enthusiast with me.

Our afternoon at the show always seems to produce the same sort of questions regarding the growing of show quality blooms and the inevitable inquiry, "what's the secret?"

Fortunately, growing roses with rose-show quality blooms is not as difficult as it might appear.

In fact, with just a few pointers and a little extra time spent in the rose bed, you could easily be the envy of your friends and neighbors, especially if you are cultivating hybrid teas, floribundas, grandifloras or miniatures.

So, what are the "secrets?"

1. Pick a winner in the first place.

When you look over the entries at a rose-show it seems like the same roses win on a consistent basis, so why not start by growing these winning names in the first place?

Of course the area you live will dictate the actual winners list but if you contact the nearest rose-society they will give you a list of last years and this years winners.

Make some comparisons and buy the roses that win, obviously they do best in your area and they have the pedigree you need. Find one you like and pick a winner to start with! Your rose growing efforts should go into a bush with potential.

2. Prune low to produce quality stems.

If you are considering Tea roses these will need to be pruned very low in the spring to promote basal breaks and new canes that can be trained to be straight. The longer the straight cane of the rose the better. Straight, long stems are a must in rose shows and will make your blooms stand out as being something extra special. Prune away side shoots that will produce extra stems and watch for the 'straight and true'.

Pay close attention to pruning when building your list of rose growing activities.

3. Finger prune carefully.

A big secret to getting the bigger show blooms is to carefully finger prune out all but the largest, center bud on each stem. This has to be done very early when the buds first develop. This allows space and nutrients for one bloom, not several. If it is done carefully with a sharp fingernail, early in the spring there will be no sign of removal. No scar will remain on the stem and the center bloom will grow larger.

Growing roses should be a 'hands on affair'!

4. Use liquid organic fertilizer

The quickest way to get nutrients to your roses is with a liquid fertilizer, and the best solutions are mixed with organic ingredients, which are most readily absorbed by the plant.

Liquid fish meal or liquid kelp, for example, should be applied at least every two weeks during the growing season if you want to maintain strong stems and large, healthy blooms.

Roses thrive on a thorough watering on a regular basis and liquid organic fertilizer is a show bloom necessity.

5. Consider umbrellas and fridges!

In order to protect your blooms as they open, you will need to keep them safe from the elements. Direct hot sun, wind or heavy rain will all have an effect on the color, intensity and shape of your prize rose. Petals are easily damaged and stems are easily broken.

Small umbrellas fixed to garden stakes, movable pots for placement out of the direct sun and paper cups used as "little hats" are all methods rose show enthusiasts use—anything to protect their prized possessions.

Which reminds me that if your blooms start to open up early, before you need them to, cut them, put them in water and put them in the fridge at about 65 degrees. Blooms can remain in the fridge, undamaged, for about four days, and when taken out and their stems re-cut, will look as if they were freshly cut.

I have won many ribbons at various rose shows over the years and the five pointers outlined above have been the backbone of my efforts. You don't have to take your roses to the local rose show but if you follow the five tips above, you will be delighted with the blooms that you can grow.

Growing roses just got a little more exciting.

David LeAche is the author of Rose-Works.com where you can find out all about rose growing, photographing roses, crafts with roses and using petals, hips and rose-water. FREE monthly newsletter and FREE e-book for subscribers. Find out how this website came to be so popular by visiting About Us

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Top 7 Common Lawn Care Mistakes

2008-10-22T17:45:00.000-07:00

By: Mary Ann Porsuelo
Word Count: 577

There are top tips to care for your lawn. Just as important as lawn care tips are the lawn care mistakes that we should know how to avoid. Lawn care and maintenance takes more than just the usual cutting and watering.

Here are the top ten lawn care mistakes that many people make. Some are so common that we think it's just normal, when in fact it is actually damaging to your lawn.

1. Cutting the lawn too short. Many of us would like to save time in mowing our lawns so we opt to cut them too short. This will give us a longer break between mows, but this does not bode well for your lawn. The idea here is that removing more than a third of a grass blade will weaken its root system. This will gradually result to future lawn problems.

2. No or very little preparation on the planting strategy and methods. Keep in mind that plants grow better when they are planted at the appropriate depth and spacing. Naturally, this would require some research about the plant and its most favorable conditions and some preparations to take better care of it. Conducting soil tests is particularly relevant because the pH balance can help determine which type of grass is best to grow on your lawn.

3. Disregarding the difference between mature plants and the young ones. It may not seem like a big thing, but noting which plants are new and which are mature is important. This concern involves the water intake of the plants. The water needs of the new and young plants tend to be bigger. They need more water and they may need to be in a sun condition different from that of the mature and established plants.

4. Watering and fertilizing at the wrong time and schedule. A watering schedule is recommended for homeowners who would like to maintain a healthy lawn. Watering amounts will depend on the seasonal changes, the weather and climate, and the area. Generally, the best time to water your lawn would be early in the morning, when you will have the least amount of evaporation. Timing and scheduling also applies to fertilizing you lawn. Depending on your location, fertilization of the lawn varies.

5. Ignoring the importance of mulch. Mulch is important for lawn care and maintenance because of its various uses. Mulching can help add or retain nutrients in your soil, repel insects, control weeds, and can reduce fertilizer needs by a third.

6. Mistaking when to use seed and sod. Most homeowners choose one or the other based on the amount of time to build a lawn. The truth is, you should choose between seeding or sodding by the its most advantageous purpose in lawn care. Sodding helps against soil erosion and is the most effective in building a new lawn. Seeding is better in filling gaps and bare parts of a lawn.

7. Using powder products and "green" products. Power products may be cheaper but they can get blown away before it can get into the soil. Using organic products, or "green" products, can be time-consuming since it takes longer to work and a lot of applications are needed to get results.

We can see that these are all normal mistakes. But we can also see how each of these lawn care mistakes can hinder us from making a great and healthy lawn.

The author of this article is a webmaster and is currently working on Boise Lawn Care. Feel free to contact her at keywriterm@gmail.com for any inquiries or concerns.

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Backyard Composting-Benefits of Eco-Friendly Practices

2008-10-19T15:15:00.000-07:00

By: Anita Koppens
Word Count: 490

With the prevalent trend of "going green" gaining in popularity, you have probably thought of practices to improve your eco-friendliness. You may have even thought about starting a compost pile, but simply do not know where to begin. It is not difficult to start such a project, and the benefits are many. For example, a compost pile would welcome earthworms and similar organisms. Their activities help vegetation to grow quickly and healthily. Compost also offers nutrients while improving the quality of soil, as it helps soil hold more moisture. Also, a compost pile provides an alternate disposal method for biodegradable. Clearly, there are many benefits to a compost pile; the next step is learning how to start one.

To begin, you will need to acquire a compost bin, which can usually be found at home improvement or gardening stores. If you cannot find a professionally constructed compost bin, you can easily build your own using wood, pallets, blocks of concrete, wire, and an old garbage can with ½-inch holes poked into the bottom. This permits moisture to escape from the compost container and into the ground, but keeps small animals out of the bin.

Compost bins are usually low-cost and simple to construct. One of the easiest ways involves taking sections of snow fence and making them into a square by attaching each corner to a strong post, and then staking it into the ground. Others have created compost bins from used skids or simply by creating a circle from chicken wire. If you want a sturdier compost bin, consider using two by fours to create a square compost bin with gaps for airflow.

Put the compost bin far enough away from your home so that you will not smell any waste, yet close enough for convenience. You should also remember that that the compost bin will naturally be warm because of the biological process taking place inside. In order to retain this warmth, if you live in a cooler area you will need to put it in a sunny area. If you dwell in a very hot, dry area, you will need to add water to it occasionally and perhaps put it in a shady area. It needs to sustain some warmth and wetness, but any severity in temperature will likely slow down the procedure.

After you have begun your composting, it will be easy to maintain and reap the many benefits from your good intentions. Continuously add scraps from the kitchen like onion peels, lettuce, even whole fruits or vegetables that went bad before you had the opportunity to eat them. It is essential to turn the soil at least once per season to keep the soil oxygenated. The material at the bottom should be exposed to the top and vice versa for the matter on the top. Such simplicity with great rewards should provide encouragement to keep up with other environmentally friendly habits.

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Care And Growth of Rosemary as Cooking Herb and Blue Flowering Garden Shrubs

2008-10-17T08:54:00.000-07:00

Rosemary the Flower

By: Laura Zinkan
Word Count: 622

Fragrant rosemary (rosmarinus officinalis) is a perennial, evergreen shrub. Not only are they wonderful cooking herbs, they are also dependable plants to use in any drought tolerant garden. These plants are native to the Mediterranean region which is known for mild winters, hot summers and generally low rainfall.

Some common names for rosemary include, Dew of the Sea, Compass Weed and Elf Leaf. In medieval lore, rosemary was used to promote good health, healing and protection. Rosemary was hung over doors to keep thieves away and worn to relieve depression and improve mental powers. It can be burned as an incense whole and has been used as a substitute for frankincense. In Victorian times, rosemary was used as a symbol of remembrance and carried by brides on their wedding day.

Rosemary has fragrant, sticky, pine needle-like leaves with deep green on top and white underneath. Mature rosemary branches are brown and have a thin papery covering that looks like peeling bark. Rosemary plants are easy to grow in containers and can also be used for bonsai. Rosemary can be shaped into small cone-shaped trees for Christmas, or grown inside of mesh cages and shaped into fantastic topiary creations. Left untrimmed, rosemary has a draping growth habit and will be seen hanging over pots, or tumbling down slopes. Pinch the tips of the branches to encourage shrubbier growth - and use the fragrant leaves in your dinner.

Rosemary blooms in winter and early spring. Flowers are usually blue, but white and pink varieties can be found at specialty nurseries or online seed catalogues. The flowers are small, just under 1/2 across, but they cover the tips of the stems in a way that makes the entire plant turn blue. For dramatic impact in the landscape plant a row of rosemary up high in a rock garden, or on the top of a set of garden steps. A bank of blooming rosemary tumbling over the edges looks like a wave of blue and green. When rosemary is brushed it releases a cloud of refreshing fragrance into the air.

Rosemary plants grow slowly to six feet tall, but are generally seen much smaller when potted in containers. Rosemary likes full sun but can be grown in light shade. Rosemary can tolerate regular garden water, but will happily survive in drought conditions. They will tolerate sea spray, alkaline soil and hot summers.

Rosemary is also subject to root rot, so do not let the plants sit in a wet pot. In the garden, if your soil is heavy clay, or retains a lot of water, you should make sure the soil is dry before watering again. Although, if it has been 120 degrees in your area, you might want to throw in an extra watering. Giving your plants a good soaking once a month instead of a few sprinkles every week will encourage deep root development, which helps them withstand drought.

Rosemary plants are a tasty herb for all types of recipes. You can use it fresh from the garden, just pull the leaves off the woody stems. Rosemary tastes good with meat, in soups or stews or with vegetables. Whole branches are great to stuff into whole baked chickens or turkey. Or put a spring of rosemary in olive oil for dipping with French bread. Layer slices of bread with fresh rosemary then warm slightly. The essential oils will seep into the bread and the springs can be eaten raw.

Today promising research is being done on rosemary's ability to improve mental capacity and mood. Research on asthma, skin conditions and scalp issues are also promising.

Rosemary is a good choice for container gardens, herb gardens or desert gardens. Happy gardening.

Visit http://www.theGardenPages.com to see photos and plant profiles, growing tips and lore about succulents and California native plants. Laura Zinkan is a writer and artist living in California. You can share her unique vision of Los Angeles and California at her regional web site http://www.AngelCityArt.com Copyright 2008 by Laura Zinkan. This article may be reprinted as long as author credit is given with website. All rights reserved.

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Vegetable Gardening Tips

2008-10-15T09:03:00.000-07:00

By: Tian Xiangyu
Word Count: 453

Vegetable gardening can be enjoyable and relaxing. You can not only get exercise but also get to enjoy the fruits of your labors at the end of the season. Using the right garden accessories, as well as planning ahead, will help you grow a fantastic garden. To get the best results from your garden, there are a few important things to consider.

For the best success, a vegetable garden should be well planned out in advance. The garden location is important. You must take sunlight, drainage, soil quality, and shade from buildings and trees into consideration. A good vegetable garden must have at least six hours of full sun each day in order for your food crops to mature properly. The soil should be very fertile and well draining so that water never puddles after a rain storm. Choose a spot close to a water supply for convenience, and to avoid having to use long lengths of hoses.

Another thing to think about is what kind of vegetables would you like to grow. Think about what vegetables you would buy when you go shopping. Unless you are growing them to give away, you'll probably want to grow vegetables that you will enjoy eating.

Implement flowers and herbs with vegetables, which can add interest, variety and health to your vegetable garden. Flowers or herbs that have strong odors are known to repel pests and help prevent disease. Some vegetables will create exceptional borders and can be used for ornamental purposes.

Vegetables need proper watering. Consistent watering will produce successful results. Don't water at night in hot or humid weather. The moisture and humidity may combine with the high temperatures to promote plant diseases. This may happen when water gathers at the roots or the foliage is allowed to become excessively wet and causing diseases to spread.

It's better to remove weeds by the roots rather than chopping them up with a tiller or cultivator, for many can re-sprout from the chopped-up bits. Get ahead of weeds early in the season and keep them from returning in force with a layer of organic mulch. Don't use wood chips, as they break down they can compete with plants' roots for nutrients. Get a compost pile started and be ready to collect leaves this fall so next year you'll have plenty of free mulch.

Be vigilante against insect pests throughout the growing season. Discovering a bug problem early will make it much easier to take appropriate action and eliminate the pests. Do not use pesticides once the plants have fruited unless it becomes an absolute necessity, and be sure to follow the manufacturers recommendations.

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Caring for Trees: Watering, Feeding, and Pruning for Success

2008-10-13T12:30:00.000-07:00

By: Joe Cline
Word Count: 528

What’s the one thing that makes a yard? It’s not size; it’s not grass; it’s not flowers , garden gnomes, walkways or outdoor accessories. It’s trees. Everyone loves trees; everyone wants trees. It doesn’t matter where you live, or if you already have a million, accumulating more shade givers in your front and back yard is an admirable and common goal. But what some people forget is that it’s not just buying and planting the trees that creates a veritable forest around your home; it’s also caring for them - watering, fertilizing and pruning the trees - that keeps your hard lush, green and healthy.

The first step is watering the trees. You don’t want to over-water, nor do you want to under-water. You have to find the perfect balance between drought and soaking. If you have young trees, that balance will involve more frequent watering than if you have older trees. Older trees only require watering during extremely hot periods. During those times, they will require a deep, thorough watering at least once a week, but when it is cooler if not damp, they need nothing but nature.

You also want to fertilize your trees, particularly if you have experienced drought, infestation or disease. Doing this once a year will ensure that your trees continue to grow and encourage flowering. The best times for fertilization are in the early spring or late fall. To know what kind of fertilizer to use and how to apply it, contact a local tree specialist with experience in your climate and tree-type.

Finally, you want to prune your trees. Pruning will allow your trees to take on a manageable shape and grow to their full potential. You’ll want to start by removing any small dead or dying branches. Then, get rid of branches that appear to be too heavy to remain in the air. This will not only help the tree but you as you continue pruning, as it will limit the possibility that a branch could fall and strike you during work.

When you make the first cut, cut a foot or so from the trunk of the tree. Make a second cut a few inches out from the first. If it’s a large limb, it should fall on its own and you can remove the remaining stub at the edge of the branch collar, or bulging area where the branch meets the trunk. From there, the wound you have created by removing the branch should callus over without decay. You should not need a wound dressing, unless something has gone wrong in the pruning process.

Whatever you do, you do not want to top a tree, meaning you don’t want to take shears to the top of the tree cutting off everything sticking up beyond a certain point, unless you absolutely have to. This act usually stunts the shape of a tree and takes away from aesthetics.

Your trees should be assets to your yard - they should be something you are proud of. Take care of them with proper watering, fertilizing and pruning, and they will be.

About the Author: The author writes articles on Austin Real Estate Blog. For more information about Austin Texas Real Estate, Lakeway real estate and Austin real estate can be found on the net.

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Having Bird Problems On Your Tree

2008-10-11T08:42:00.000-07:00

Cherries

By: Jess Shaw
Word Count: 569

If you are lucky enough to have a cherry tree in your yard, I am sure I don't need to tell you how much enjoyment can come from them. Just eating the delicious cherries that spawned from your tree is a rewarding experience in itself. Looking out your back window and seeing a magnificent, glorious cherry tree is also rewarding. Most people are impressed just by the fact that you have a cherry tree, because they are usually thought of by non-gardeners as some sort of exotic plant.

But along with the joys that a cherry tree can bring, there are many annoyances. They seem to attract more unwanted creatures than any other plant in the world. Almost every day it seems like there is a new type of pestilence swarming the tree, trying to get a nibble of its delicious fruits. I can't say I blame them, but if they want to eat delicious fruits then they should grow their own trees.

One of the main and most constant problems that most people deal with is birds eating the fruit off the tree. It can seem almost impossible to get rid of this pest. After all, they can come in from any angle and make a quick getaway with the cherries. Or they can sit undetected in the branches and munch away all day. A bird certainly has its versatility on its side. Those little guys can be a real hassle to catch or repel. However, there are several different ways you can deter the birds from your house.

The most used way of repelling birds is to place a plastic owl within the vicinity of the house. If you find any animal that usually eats birds and purchase a plastic version, usually real birds will be instinctual enough to avoid it. These can include snakes, owls hawks, or scarecrows (OK, maybe they don't eat birds normally. But they sure scare the birds for some reason). Most of the time you can purchase these at your local gardening store. If you want a different version or a more lifelike representation, if you look online then you're sure to find something that will work.

If you get a plastic animal of some sort, usually it will cure the bird problem for a while. However, some birds are just really brave (or really stupid) and will continue to eat from your tree. Almost any reflective surface or noisy object will prevent the birds from coming too close. I personally like to use reflective tape designed for scaring birds. You can purchase this at any gardening store. I usually use this in combination with a large assortment of wind chimes for maximum scaring. Once you have a plastic animal along with reflective items and noisy items, almost all birds will be too terrified to even go close.

While airborne creatures might take a little more than their share of fruit, you should still consider leaving one tree exclusively for them. While they might seem like a pest sometimes, birds can be the one thing that livens up your garden. If you're used to having birds and then all of a sudden you've scared them all away, you'll feel like there is something missing from your yard. Something that, on the inside, you truly loved all along.

Want to find out about the bean tree and the red maple tree? Get tips from the Tree Facts website.

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Gardening Tips You Can Use

2008-10-09T08:30:00.001-07:00

Bring up the topic of gardening in almost any social situation, and you''re bound to receive plenty of gardening advice. Everyone from greenhorn to green thumb has plenty of gardening tips to offer. Some homegrown ideas can produce bountiful results, so ask around and see which ideas grow on you.

There are plenty of sources available when you''re looking for gardening tips. You can read gardening books, catalogues and magazines. You can enquire at a garden center or check the Internet. Of course, you can ask a more seasoned gardener for his or her advice. Gardening methods, tricks and tips can vary depending on the type of garden or variety of plant your tending, but some gardening tips are universal and apply to any type of plant.

Gardening tips for planting tend to by fairly universal. All plants need room to grow, so space them so the roots can develop and the plants won''t overcrowd each other. It''s important to know the amount of sunlight required. Some plants, like hostas, prefer a shady corner of the garden while others, like most annual flowers and vegetables, thrive in open sunlight. Ventilation is also important because like all living things, plants need proper air circulation. Sources offering valuable gardening tips will also tell you to add some type of nutrients to the soil, such as mulch or compost, to help your plants grow bigger and stronger. Every plant will benefit from these general gardening tips.

Watering is a little more specialized. Different varieties of plants require different amounts of water. Obviously, a tomato needs regular watering, but a cactus needs very little. How much you water also depends on the climate. Where you live and how much rain you get can affect your watering guidelines. When seeking and following gardening tips, be sure to take your geography and climate into account.

No matter who is handing out the gardening tips, they''ll be sure to tell you that plants need to be fertilized. This is an essential step to take as soon as you plants, and it''s important to fertilize throughout the growing season. Care must be taken however, because it is possible to over fertilize and harm a growing plant. The type of fertilizer you choose will be dependant on the pH balance and content of your soil. Many garden centers offer soil-testing services. There are many organic and chemical fertilizers on the market, but don''t forget that good old compost can be a very effective alternative. One of the best gardening tips you can get is how to make a compost pile, and how to use compost to feed your plants.

Probably the most sought after gardening tips are how to get rid of pesky insects, critters, weeds and disease. Pests can easily invade and quickly destroy a garden, so it''s important to address the problem at the first sign of danger. Depending on the source of your gardening tips, you may be told to use natural or organic chemical herbicides or pesticides. Some homegrown remedies, such as cayenne pepper to keep the groundhog away, might also hold some value. Ask around to see what has worked for others.

Gardening is a fun hobby and can add great value to your home, but you can find that you''re facing formidable enemies like insects, weeds, disease and weather. Even the most seasoned of gardeners need to find gardening tips from time to time. Friends and other gardeners are a great source for general gardening tips, but if you''re looking for specific advice it will be worthwhile to consult a gardening book or search online for a trusted source.

Anyone who''s ever potted a petunia or grown a geranium will be quick to offer gardening tips. Keep in mind that there will be the occasional bad apple, so choose your advice wisely.

Nancy Anderson contributes articles to several popular online magazines, on home and garden, creative writing, and hobbies and leisure themes.

Copyright (c) 2007 Free Online Library
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Constructing And Maintaining Your Own Organic Vegetable Garden

2008-09-26T19:33:00.000-07:00

By Muna wa Wanjiru [ 26/02/2008 ]

To grow your organic vegetable garden is not a difficult thing and in fact many people who enjoy gardening are now turning to organic gardening methods. This doesn’t mean that you need to grow only organic herbs and vegetables in your garden. Organic gardening can encompass all aspects of gardening, including a flower garden or an ornamental garden as well.

Just because you want to have an organic vegetable garden that doesn’t mean that you only need to stick with the organic vegetable garden. You can expand to include such things as herbs as well if you like, not mention flowering plants and others.

The one thing that you do want to look out for when you’re growing your organic vegetable garden alongside your flower garden, is that your flower garden is also grown organically. After all, it kind of defeats the purpose of growing an organic vegetable garden if right next to it you use all sorts of chemical pesticides and fertilizers in your flower bed.

Other than that you should be fine when constructing and maintaining your own organic vegetable garden, but if you feel that you neighbor’s pesticide filled garden is too close to your own garden and that all your good efforts are going to waste you might want to look at either moving your own organic vegetable garden further away, or using pots, tubs and troughs to grow your vegetable garden.

The first thing that you need to decide when planting your organic vegetable garden is what types of vegetables you want to have. The next thing is to finding the right place to have your garden, along with how large you want, or can have, your garden. It is entirely possible to grown your organic vegetable garden in a small closed off patio on the 44th floor of your high rise apartment as long as you are willing to accept your limitations and work with them.

This means being aware that although you might want to plant an acre’s worth of organic vegetable crops, you will instead have to make do with a small 4x4 or even smaller sized enclosure in which to grow your organic vegetable garden.

Once all of these things have been factored in and you have a rough idea of what you want in your organic vegetable garden, and how big you want your garden to be, you can then move on to the serious subject of just where to get your organic vegetable seed or plant stock from.

Here, you might have to make a decision as to whether you want your organic vegetable garden to be planted from completely organic seed or plant stock, or whether, if you have difficulty in obtaining these, you want to resort to using plant stock from a nursery which is not organic, but which you will grow from scratch utilizing organic methods. Once all these are done, you can then get started on your organic vegetable garden.
About the author:
Muna wa Wanjiru is a Web Administrator and Has Been Researching and Reporting on Organic Foods for Years. For More Information on Organic Vegetable Garden, Visit His Site at ORGANIC VEGETABLE GARDEN

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Enjoy the Life of Gardening A Relaxing Sense of Accomplishment

2008-09-25T18:27:00.000-07:00

Everyone in your family, including your children, will enjoy planting a vegetable garden. Even when you include your children, you can still have a very delightful garden in which everyone can enjoy spending time together. Of course, you may want to add some pumpkins, watermelons or sunflowers to your garden since these are things that your children will really enjoy.

Grow A Pizza Garden

There are a lot of ways in which you can go about planting an organic garden , filled with wonderful tasting vegetables. One way that you can do this is by planting a theme garden. For instance, you can plant a pizza garden wherein you can grow all of the vegetables that you would need in order to make a great, homemade pizza. Some of the things that you could grow in such a garden include tomatoes for making the sauce; green peppers, jalapenos and onions for toppings; and various herbs and seasonings such as basil, thyme and oregano.

What You Need To Use In All Natural Gardening

There are some specific garden supplies that you will need to purchase in order to create an all natural garden. Since both rain water and compost are important to your all natural garden, you can easily purchase rain barrels and compost bins that are made out of recycled materials too, which makes these items even more eco-friendly. Of course, there are also natural things that you can use to get rid of insects, deer and other such animals that may be making a meal out of your garden.

While you will need some special supplies in order to create this garden, this is actually a lot more healthy for you and your family. This is also a very inexpensive type of garden since you will not have to purchase expensive chemicals, fertilizers or pesticides that have been commercially produced. In the end you are also going to notice that your vegetables taste a lot better too because this is how nature intended for us to eat our vegetables. You might think that this would make growing your vegetables difficult while gardening, it really does not do so, instead it actually makes it easier for you.

Of course, you might not believe this information at the moment, but after you spend some time growing vegetables in this manner, you will be able to taste the difference. You will also notice that these vegetables are much healthier for you since you will not be ingesting chemicals that your body is not meant to digest.
Jean Rigg loves to garden and is out in the yard from early spring till late fall. She has a very green thumb and and a beautiful garden to match. She shares her love of gardening and many years experience at organic gardening made easy or http://best-garden-now.info/

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Easy Vegetable Growing

2008-09-25T18:24:00.000-07:00

By: Chris And Alison Clarke
Word Count: 1128

Vegetable growing is becoming more popular each and every year and if you have space in your garden its worth giving it a go.

Its not just about saving money, no, far from it.

Its knowing that your own home grown veg are grown naturally, it’s the sheer delight of having grown them yourself, it’s the unbelievable flavour of straight from the garden to the kitchen, to the table, its, well you could just keep going on and on.

But let's come back to reality.

Growing them does take time and effort, it all depends on what you grow.

Most of the effort is preparing the ground, but you can cheat hear a wee bit.

Make a raised bed, about 15cm (6inches) deep will do, but 23cm (9inches) is far better and worth the extra effort.

Don’t make the raised bed too wide. You need to be able to reach the middle from both sides without standing inside it. You do not want to stand on the soil and compact it.

Planned properly raised beds will give you years and years of easy veg growing and harvesting with no more digging, ever, just a top up of compost is all that’s needed.

Once the bed has been finished, the ground dug over and plenty of compost or well-rotted manure added it is so easy from there on in!

Vegetables are easy to grow, you just sow your seeds, plant your potatoes, cabbage seedlings and the rest of your favourites and watch them grow, then harvest and eat.

Well ok, that’s a bit simplified. But once the bed is built you do not have to dig it again.

Just top up with compost or well-rotted manure at the start of each season and it is ready for your next lot of crops.

Before you go ahead and start your veg plot give some thought to what you want to grow, how much time you have and what space is available in your garden.

Pushed for time? Then go for easy to grow, look after themselves vegetables like potatoes, parsnips, turnips, onions, beetroot.

Not much space, then just grow what you and your family really like. Even a small patch will produce a good crop of mouth wateringly fresh vegetables.

What's best and easiest to grow?

Give some of these easy veg a try

Runner bean

Broad bean

Onion

Beetroot

Lettuce

Carrot

Parsnip

Radish

Potato

You don’t have to grow all of them, pick the ones your family likes the most. They are all fairly easy to grow.

Get hold of a seed catalogue now, sit down with your family and decide what vegetables you want to grow.

Order the seeds in January, or at the latest very early February, so you can get a good early start in February and March.

That’s one of the secrets with growing vegetables, get them started early, and when the prices are high in the stores you are enjoying your own home grown at a fraction of the stores prices. You will undoubtedly save money.

(But you can sow later if you want to, just read the instructions on the seed packets. Vegetable seedlings you buy from garden centers, nurseries or gardening stores can be planted as late as may, some even later. Just follow the planting times and instructions on the labels. Potatoes are usually planted in April through to June).

Chris and Alison are experienced gardeners and specialize in plant propagation. For all the information you need on propagating and growing gardening plants successfully visit www.plants-free-for-life.com

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Gardening In The Fall

2008-09-25T18:06:00.000-07:00

By: Jasper Sayer

Many gardeners do not even consider fall gardening because of the winter frosts that might make an early appearance. On the contrary, fall gardening will result in excellent vegetables and will extend crops long after spring planted plants are finished. Vegetables produced from fall gardening are sometimes sweeter and milder than those grow in the summer and offer a brand new taste to the same old veggies.

What you choose to grow during you fall gardening will depend on your available space and what you like to eat, just like spring plants. Even the crops that enjoy the heat, such as tomatoes, sweet potatoes, okra, and peppers, will produce until frosts hit, which can be pretty late in the year in southern areas. However, there are some plants that will quit towards the end of summer like snap-beans, summer squash, and cucumbers. If these vegetables are planted around the middle of the summer they can be harvested until the first frosts as well. Hardy, tough vegetables will grow until the temperature is as low as 20 degrees, but those that aren't as strong will only be able to grow through light frosts. Remember that if you have root and tuber plants and the tops are killed by a freeze the edible part can be saved if a large amount of mulch is used.

When fall gardening, make sure and pick the vegetables with the shortest growing season so they can be full grown and harvested before the frost arrives. Most seed packages will be labeled "early season", or you can find the seeds boasting the fewest days to maturity. You may want to go after your seeds for fall gardening in spring or early summer; they are usually not kept in stock towards the end of summer. If they are stored in a cool and dry location they will keep until you are ready to plant.

In order to know exactly when the best time to start fall gardening, you must know about when the first hard frost will hit your area. One of the best ways to tell this is by a Farmer's Almanac. They will give you exact dates and are rarely wrong. You will also need to know exactly how long it is going to take your plants to mature.

To get your soil ready for fall gardening you must first remove any leftover spring/summer crops and weeds. Crops leftover from the last season can end up spreading bacteria and disease if left in the garden. Spread a couple of inches of compost or mulch over the garden area to increase the nutrients, however, if spring plants were fertilized heavily it may not need much, if any. Till the top layer of soil, wet it down, and let it set for about 12-24 hours. Once this has been done, you are ready to start planting.

Many gardeners will run from fall gardening so they don't have to deal with frosts, but if tough, sturdy vegetables are planted they can withstand a few frosts and give you some wonderful tasting produce. Fall gardening gives you the chance to enjoy your vegetable garden for at least a little bit more time.

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About the Author:
To read about how to grow mushrooms and how to grow garlic, visit the How to Grow Things site.

5 Quick Tips For a Better Lawn

2008-09-20T09:27:00.000-07:00

By: Tim A. Smith

Don't get me wrong, maintaining a high quality lawn does take some effort, but with a few simple tips on mowing you can have a lawn that will make your neighbors envious.

First, never mow your lawn when it's wet. A wet lawn can allow grass clippings to clump together more easily. This clump of grass can smother the grass beneath it leaving a dead spot or create a spot where weeds can take root. Wait for a day or two after a rain storm and avoid mowing right after you've watered the lawn.

Tip number two is to never cut more than one third (1/3) of your lawns height at any one time. Most well maintained lawns are between 2 to 3 inches in height, so they should be mowed before they reach 4 to 4 1/2 inches in height. How frequently that occurs depends on your climate of course. The reasoning behind never cutting more than 1/3 of your lawns height at once is to avoid stressing the turf.

The third rule of mowing is to keep you lawn mower blades sharp. Most people use a standard gas powered rotary mower that cuts grass like a machette. The sharper the blades, the more even the cut. A dull blade will tear the grass rather than cut it, and this can lead to brown tips at the end of the blade of grass. Lawn mower blade sharping is an easy maintenance task that can be done with a grinder (even a Dremmel will work), or you can have it done by a professional for approximately $20.

Forth, don't mow in the same direction every time. Many people develop a habit when mowing the lawn and they mow exactly the same way every time. This causes the grass to develop a "grain" just like a piece of wood because the grass growing off to the sides does not get cut as evenly as the grass growing upwards. It is best to mow at a right angle to the direction the grass was last cut. So, for example, if you mowed your lawn from east to west last time, try mowing from north to south this time.

Finally, don't bag your clippings. Grass clippings are an easy way to return nutrients to the soil and reduce the need for artificial fertilizers. If you mow your lawn before the grass gets too tall, you won't notice the clippings anyhow. That and the fact that it's less work to ignore the clippings makes this a winner of an idea!

So, now you have five easy tips that don't add any extra work to week and possibly decreased your work load if you've been bagging your clippings. These won't make your yard look as good as a golf course, but they will help ensure that your lawn stays green and lush without any extra maintenance on your part.

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About the Author:
About the author: Matt is a lawn care professional who enjoys helping others create the perfect lawn. For more tips on beautifying your yard, visit http://www.mattslawns.info and get the free guide "Top 7 Lawn Care Secrets".

Green Tomato Pickles Can Be Made Using The Following Ingredients

2008-09-18T18:59:00.000-07:00

By Muna wa Wanjiru [ 13/05/2008 ]

Green tomatoes have since a long time been the staple food of majority of people in South America. A number of recipes can be created using the green tomatoes. Green tomatoes are generally available during the beginning of the winter season. The green tomato pickle is one such recipe. It is a very delicious dish and is savored by all. Green tomato pickles can be made using the following ingredients;

1. 750 ml white vinegar (white vinegar is the best for preservation as well as for presentation)
2. About 3 kilo grams of green tomatoes
3. 1 kilo gram of onions
4. Salt to taste (the salt used may be pickling salt)
5. Half teaspoon pepper
6. 1 kilo gram sugar
7. 2 red chili peppers
8. 2 teaspoons cloves (whole)
9. 1/3 cup of mustard seeds
10. ¼ cup of celery seeds
11. 1 tablespoon Jamaican pepper (allspice)
12. 1 teaspoon black pepper (ground)

The procedure for making the green tomato pickle is

* Slice or cut quarters of the tomatoes. Place the pieces and sliced onions in two separate bowls. Sprinkle ¾ cup of salt over the tomato pieces and ¼ cup of salt on the onion slices. Stir the mixtures. Place lids over the bowls. Let the tomatoes and onions stand for about 4 to 6 hours. After 4 to 6 hours, place the tomatoes in a piece of cheese cloth and press them gently to drain the extra juice produced.
* Repeat the same above mentioned procedure for onions.
* After removing tomatoes and onions from the bowls, throw away the salt water.
* In a large pot or a kettle, put the green tomatoes, onions, sugar, vinegar, chilli peppers, celery seeds, mustard seeds, and pepper. Stir the mixture well.
* Tie the allspice and cloves in a cheese cloth.
* Dip the cloth containing the spices in the tomato onion mixture.
* Bring this mixture to boil.
* Reduce the flame and gently simmer the mixture. This has to be done keeping the pot uncovered.
* Heat this mixture for about 20 minutes so that the vegetables become tender and the flavor of the spices is spread evenly to the entire mixture.
* Sterilize the jars by boiling the jars and their lids in water for about 15 to 20 minutes.
* Place the tomatoes and the liquid in the sterilized jars. In addition to tomatoes, place 1 chili pepper in each jar.
* Immediately, cover the jars with lids and secure them using rubber bands if required.
* An additional processing needs to be done. It includes placing the jars in boiling water bath or tub for 15 minutes.
* The pickle has to be stored in a cool and dark place.
* The opened pickles must be stored in refrigerator later.

The above mentioned recipe makes about 8 full cups of pickle. The shelf life of the green tomato pickle is about 1 ½ to 2 years. As the pickle is a delicious dish and has an easy recipe, it is frequently prepared in homes. Thus, the popularity of green tomato pickles has increased manifold.
About the author:
Muna wa Wanjiru Has Been Researching and Reporting on Pickles for Years. For More Information on Green Tomato Pickles, Visit His Site at Green Tomato Pickles I Will Also Highly Appreciate Your Views On Green Tomato Pickles At My Blog here Green Tomato Pickles

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The Greenhouse Advantage for Seed Starting

2008-09-12T17:19:00.000-07:00

By: Christopher Kline
Word Count: 438

With proper planning there are several advantages that greenhouse enthusiasts have for seed germinating and getting their plants off to a great start.

Jump Start the Growing Season - Just as greenhouse gardeners are able to extend the growing season they can get a head start as well. Many desirable plant varieties cannot be sowed until after the last freeze of the season and in some cases it takes even longer for the ground to warm to an appropriate temperature for optimum seed germination. In the greenhouse, seed germination can start three to four weeks before the estimated last freeze of the season giving greenhouse gardeners a head start on their open air counterparts. This is particularly important for success with long season vegetables (those that require 70 or more days to produce) e.g., melons, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, corn, carrots and parsnips among others.

Climate Control - Most seeds germinate when the soil temperature is between 68 and 86°F. In some areas the greenhouse may be warm enough for good seed germination on its own, but if not, the sheltered environment of the greenhouse is a perfect place to use inexpensive soil heating cables or electric seed warming trays for starting seeds. An added advantage of the greenhouse for your new seedlings is protection from severe weather like strong wind, rain or unexpected cold that can be devastating to new sprouts. The increased humidity of the greenhouse also helps to provide an ideal germinating environment.

Pest Control - Seeds and young plants are particularly vulnerable to garden pests and predators. Birds in particular love seeds and often times they will dig them up from the ground before your plants even get a chance to sprout. This even happens when using sprouting trays or containers outside. Once seeds are sprouted, young plants are still quite vulnerable to small rodents and insects until they are 8-10 inches tall. The greenhouse gives plants protection from pests until they are strong enough to have a good chance of survival in the open air garden. An added benefit of the greenhouse is that it provides a wonderful environment for using biological pest control by releasing lady bugs into the greenhouse. Lady bugs will consume up to 1,000 aphids in their lifetimes in both their larvae and adult stages and work well in greenhouse settings.
Now is the Time! - If you have a greenhouse and have not considered starting your plants from seeds you now have all the information and reasons you need to start using this low cost alternative to starting your gardens. Good luck and happy propagation!

Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and sunflower specialist living in Paradise Valley Arizona. He is also an editor for http://www.SunflowerOcity.com The Ultimate Sunflower Site has everything imaginable about sunflowers including great information, links to the best products, sites and discussion boards. You can reach Chris at Chris.Kline@sunflowerOcity.com.

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Cooking Asparagus The Fun And Easy Way

2008-09-04T09:14:00.000-07:00

By Jon Griffin [ 04/07/2007 ]

Preparation is the key when you're going to cook asparagus. There are several methods of cooking boiling, grilling, steaming, or roasting. The microwave is also a good option when cooking asparagus. Cut the asparagus into sections and you can use it in stirfries you can also blanch the asparagus and use it in vegetable dips. Of course, there's nothing like steamed asparagus with butter, salt, and pepper.

When buying asparagus make sure that it is fresh, the asparagus will taste much better and can be kept for two to three days when properly stored. Once you get the asparagus home and ready to prepare, you'll need to trim it. The easiest way to trim asparagus before cooking is to simply do it by hand by bending the stock until it breaks. If it will not break but only bends, it is probably old and will not be as fresh as you would like it. Some cooks prefer to peel the bottom of the stocks this is not really necessary but sometimes helps when the stocks are a little woody. Contrary to popular belief the thicker asparagus is actually more flavorful than the pencil thin variety that most people want to buy.

An easy way to peel asparagus if you decide to go that route, is to lay a stalk on the counter or a cutting board and use a vegetable peeler. Starting at the top of the asparagus peel all the way to the end. The main reason anybody would peel asparagus, as I mentioned above, would be to make the asparagus more tender. You don't need to completely peel the asparagus either, simply peel down one one side to allow moisture to enter the asparagus while it is cooking.

If you want to steam the asparagus here is a simple method. After you have timmed your asparagus to the size you need, and optionally peeled it, place them in a saucepan and about an inch of water. Another steaming method you can use when cooking asparagus is to stand them vertically. Make sure you tie the bundles at the bottom and the top so they don't fall over in the pan. They should steam for approximately 5 to 10 minutes depending on the thickness.

Boiling is a great way to cook asparagus also. You want to use just enough water to cover the asparagus but make sure all the stems face the same direction and are covered with water. The asparagus will take between four to six minutes to cook completely, but again that depends on the size.

One method I really enjoy is using the grill. Cooking asparagus on the grill either directly over the fire or on skewers gives a great smoky flavor. Depending how you like them, cook the asparagus for anywhere from 30 seconds to 10 minutes. Another great way to cook the asparagus is to wrap them in foil with a little bit of olive oil and salt and pepper and cook them on the grill for 10-20 minutes. You'll have a great treat.

On those winter days when you really don't want to cook asparagus on the BBQ, another great option is roasting. Simply heat the oven to 425° F, and lay the asparagus flat on a baking sheet lined with foil. You can put any seasoning you want on the asparagus when roasting; salt, pepper, lemon pepper or any other spice that you have on hand are good. You will be rewarded with a nice tender stalk with a roasted flavor in about two to three minutes.

About the author:
Jon Griffin has been playing music since he was 7 years old. He is also an avid cook and expert in beer, brewing and other beverages. He owns salsablanca.com and learningaboutstuff.com

He went to Grove School of Music where he studied songwriting and composing and arranging (yes it was fun doing a big band chart every week!).

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Grow Organic and Heal More Than Just Your Body

2008-08-30T15:49:00.000-07:00

By Matthew Stonewell Guilbault [ 05/03/2007 ]

Growing your own organic vegetables offers a very a very comforting feeling because you know where the food came from. These days I can't even look at vegetables and fruits without a discerning eye. Then there's the issue with food safety at fast food restaurants. It's getting pretty darn scary these days with intestinal disorders growing at an epidemic rate. I for one am plagued with Chrohn's Disease and know several others with some form of digestive ailment. We can't trust foods in this day and age if we don't know where they came from. There's also the factos of stress and eating on the run but that's another story.

Organic gardening becomes very rewarding when you take a formerly barren area of your yard or even inside and convert it into a bounty of food and flowers!! What's even more amazing is that you can use every day, biodegradable kitchen waste. Things like lettuce, Banana peels and egg shells. You can toss the scraps into a composter in your yard or you can get a worm composter and compost year round inside.

After a while recycling biodegradables into wholesome soil becomes rather addictive because the rewards are so great on all levels. When you really start getting into the observation of just how many levels gardening effects, it's much more than initially meets the eye. There are the not so obvious health improvements that we don't immediately realise. Things like creating cleaner air and welcoming good bugs and bacteria into our living area.

There are also many ways to harvest the rainwater from your own roof with rain barrels. You can save thousands of gallons of water per year in some regions. Rain water harvesting also helps in controlling erosion where if left alone in some cases could cause structural damage and wash out roadways or road ways.

All in all these issues are yet more viable reasons to go organic. It's just a shift in your thinking. "Reality is Perception"!!
About the author:
Matthew Stonewell Guilbault is a consultant with over 15 years experience in customer service, management, marketing and promotion. He currently is in development of several websites that are based on building a more proactive, sustaining lifestyle. Matt bases his business efforts on good will in effort to create lasting relationships that impact our lives on an inner and outward level.

In addition, Matthew is an accomplished song writer, recording engineer, audio systems designer and producer.

Orchid Growing Tips and Tricks

2008-08-27T14:25:00.001-07:00

By: Jeremy Sleigh Email Article
Word Count: 454

The best orchid growing tip that I heard was to be selective in the sort of orchid I picked according to where I lived. Growing orchids isn't super easy (although it isn't super difficult either) and they can be a little more delicate than you may have been told. They do however have very specific conditions which if set properly will mean they really flourish and provide unparalleled beauty. Also, despite their delicateness , orchids are very versatile too. Following are some orchid growing tips you will definitely want to follow to get the most out of these beautiful flowers.

Orchids are definitely not plants that you simply leave to the elements while many orchids do manage in nature without human intervention, they require orchid care. The truth of the matter is that most orchids require a significant amount of care and tending. Of course those who are truly passionate about their orchids are more than willing to take all the time they need in order to learn the best possible way in which to care for these beautiful blooms.

There are many aspects common to all orchids but at the same time there is no standard solution. Each plant will require something a little different when it comes down to growing them effectively. It's important to do a little research before you select your plant so you can get a few more orchid growing tips (this article will give you a lot).

Orchids like humidity in the air and really excel when growing in this sort of environment. A good growing tip is to use humidity trays and keep your orchids on that. To save some money you can even make your own by using a tray covered in pebbles which are kept moist or have a little water under them. I do not recommend misting the petals of your orchid, this can harm their growth and is not a good tip. Instead buy some humidity trays or make your own.

The media in your pot is also very important. Pete moss, fir bark and even charcoal are great fertilizers for orchids and should be changed fairly regularly to keep nutrients fresh. Keep a good level of fertilizer in your orchid pt will ensure the bloom are as beautiful as possible. Once the bloom has fallen, cut at the lower part of the leaves and not at the elbows. This will help the orchid grow next time.

Another of the best orchid growing tips is to give your plant light. Most orchids like light, but not too much, behind blinds is a good position in the home and try to limit it to around 4 hours per day.

Learning to grow your own orchids can be very rewarding. This article is just the beginning and you can get plenty more orchid care tips by visiting http://www.orchidcarerevealed.com. The site even offers a completely free report that you can access right now by clicking here

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How To Install A Package Of Honey Bees

2008-08-11T16:39:00.000-07:00

by ALBERT NEEDHAM

One of the most common ways of starting a new hive is to buy a 'Package Of Bees' from a bee supply company. On the east coast of the US, most packages are produced by companies in the State of Georgia. Georgia's warm climate is very conducive to honey bee production.

The average package purchased comes with three pounds of honey bees amounting to about 10,000 bees inside plus a Queen Bee in a small screened cage in the center out of sight. She is accompanied by two or three worker bees who attend to her every need during the period of shipment. The bees are provided a large can of sugar syrup in the center of this mass of bees. This can is upside down with numerous pinholes punched in the lid to provide access to the food for their journey to their new bee hive. A small wooden cover is nailed over an opening on the top of the box to give access to its contents,the Queen Bee Cage,thousands of worker bees in a huge
clump and a can of sugar syrup, food for their journey. You should be ready to install a package very shortly after it arrives. If not,wait until evening and keep them in a cool spot( 50 to 75F )away from the sun.Your bee hive should be all set up and ready for the bees. It is not in the best interests of the bees to keep them in the package box any longer then necessary. Spray a sugar syrup mixture ( 1 : 1 mixture of water and sugar ) on the package screening. This will help to keep them occupied and remain calm.

Now you should you have the package of bees next to the open bee hive in which they are going to be installed. Be sure you have placed an entrance reducer in the hive opening on the bottom board. This is for the purpose of making it easier for them to defend the smaller entrance to the hive should a horde of robber bees descend upon the bee hive while they are getting themselves established.

Pry off the wood cover on the top of the package box. Gently slide out the large can of sugar syrup and place it to the side. Pull out the small wooden cage with the Queen and slip it in to your pocket to keep her warm and out of harms way. This cage is a small wood block suspended downward under the wood cover and hollowed out in the center to provide a chamber ( covered with a piece of screen ) for the Queen and a couple of attendants inside with her. One end of the this Queen Cage has been drilled out and the tunnel is filled with a bee candy mixture so that she cannot escape.

This Queen Bee has not been raised with this collection of worker bees. If she were thrown in with these workers unprotected when the package was being put together, they would immediately kill her because she is not 'one of them'. While she is in this cage during shipment they get used to the pheromones she is constantly giving off and she and the workers become family so to speak. So when she is finally released from her cage she is 'one of them'.

When you are ready to shake the bees out of the box into their new home take the Queen Cage out of your pocket and using a small nail insert it into the bee candy and make a narrow hole. This is to help the worker bees now in the hive eat their way thru to enable the Queen to enter her new home. At this point you don't want her coming out thru the tunnel and perhaps falling to the ground and getting injured or possibly stepped on or disappear from our sight.

Suspend the Queen Cage by gently putting it between the two frames about four frames in from the side of the hive box. Position the cage with the bee candy plugged hole facing down towards the bottom board and make sure the frames on each side of the cage are pushed together securely.. The bees will chew through the bee candy plug and release the queen within a few hours. Do not put the queen cage under the opening in the inner cover with the sugar syrup feeder sitting above it. Bang the package box on the ground or the hive box itself a couple of times to get most of the bees to fall towards the bottom of the box. Pick up the box and invert it over the center of the hive box and give it a few healthy shakes so that the majority of the bees will fall down between the frames. It's okay to bang the edge of the box to shake some of the remaining bees loose. Some bees will fly around but don't worry about them as they will not fly away. They will never abandon their Queen. There will still be some bees stubbornly staying inside the package box. Place the box on the ground in front of the hive with the opened area facing towards the bottom board. The bees remaining inside will eventually all crawl out on their own and march inside the entrance to the hive. Close your hive up leaving the package bee box where it is on the ground. Come back in a couple of days to check if the queen has been released from her cage. If she has not then gently lift the cage out and widen the bee candy tunnel making sure once again that she does not fall out. Replace the cage and check it the following day. Make sure that you keep them supplied with sugar syrup until they start building up their own supplies.
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5 Tips to Make Organic Gardening Easier

2008-08-06T18:49:00.000-07:00

Organic gardening has many advantages and this article will offer you 5 tips to make organic gardening easier.

Organic Gardening Tip #1:
Mulch your trees and flower beds with 3" of organic material. When you use this organic gardening tip you will be able to add humus and nutrients. You can also conserve water and keep weeds at bay. If you are growing plants that need acid you can use a thick layer of pine needles. Organic gardening with pine needle mulch will be perfect if used in the fall because over the course of the winter they will decompose and the needed acid will be added naturally to the soil.

Organic Gardening Tip #2:
You need to maintain healthy soil if you want to be successful at organic gardening. The most important step in maintaining healthy soil while engaged in organic gardening is to keep on top of pest management. When pests are controlled in organic gardening the plants will be healthy and more able to withstand insect and disease damage. If you are bothered while organic gardening with aphids you can spray the infested leaves, stems and buds with a diluted solution of soapy water followed with clear water.

Organic Gardening Tip #3:
Try composting as part of your organic gardening regimen. When you make composting part of organic gardening you will improve the texture, soil structure and aeration. Composting also increases the capacity for the soil to hold water. There are organic and natural ways to fertilize when you are organic gardening. Try these instead of chemical fertilizers.

Organic Gardening Tip #4:
Organic gardening gardeners should always keep in mind the best plants for their soil, sun, temperature range and shade. All these factors come into play while organic gardening. Choosing well-adapted plant types is a way to ensure successful organic gardening. When you landscape your yard using organic gardening strategies you can increase your original investment by as much as 200%.

Organic Gardening Tips #5:
Organic gardening shade gardens are low maintenance. You will need less water and have fewer weeds to deal with. Speaking of weeds; try using full-strength household vinegar on a sunny day. Just spray on the plants and you have an organic gardening solution that is safe for people, pets, wildlife and the environment.

These organic gardening tips should come in handy for all organic gardeners, novice or experienced alike.

Cindy Mauro has been an organic gardener for many years and enjoys sharing her tips with others. She is a contributing author at 4BestGardening.com For more gardening tips go to: Gardening Tips

Copyright (c) 2007 Free Online Library
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Landscape renovation

2008-07-29T12:13:00.000-07:00

Surface cherry tree root buckling paver walk-way and headed to damage home needed removed. Watered while worked on, it should make it. Like trimming toenails.
Large surface roots can be an indication of poor drainage.

The combination of plastic(installed for weed-prevention)
and clay-like packed soil under 3"+ of pea gravel
created water to pool under the gravel.
The roots are goin' for it. If a person lays rock thick enough,
plastic is not needed. An occasional weed will pop regardless.
A cloth-like weed barrier is a better choice if the layer of decorative
material is thin or the material is bark-like.

BBQ made of recycled material .

Design the Perfect Vegetable Garden to Suit Your Dinner Table

2008-07-17T14:51:00.000-07:00

Rita's Garden
June 26, 2008

When you are looking to start your own vegetable garden , you have a few decisions to make. First of all, you have to decide what kind of vegetables you want to include. You have to decide how many of each plant type you want to include and you have to decide where to place your garden.

The placement of your garden is the most important part. You want to choose a place that gets plenty of sunlight and you want to make sure that your garden is big enough for the one that you have in mind. Once you have your spot picked out and your seeds in hand, it''s time to design the perfect vegetable garden.

Pick Out A Spot

To choose a spot for your vegetable garden, pick a spot near your house or at least where you can keep an eye on it. You shouldn''t be worried too much about people coming into your garden and messing things up but you want to be especially worried about rodents, pests and other animals who might see your vegetable garden design as some help yourself buffet. Once you have your plot picked out, you might want to line it with chicken wire to keep it safe from those same pests.

The size of your garden is important as you want to make sure that your plants have enough room to grow and flourish. When creating your vegetable garden design, you want to make sure that each seed is placed at least six inches apart. Any less than that and you risk overcrowding, which means that your vegetable garden may not produce as much as you hope.

When you have the spot picked out and you deem it large enough for all the vegetables that you plan to sow, make lines in the soil with your finger or a garden tool. These lines should lead the long ways across the garden, at least six inches apart as stated above. Once you have the lines in the soil drawn, drop your seeds into the divots that you made, again about six inches apart. Cover the holes with soil and water thoroughly. If you wish, you can insert some plant food sticks that you can get at your local home and garden store to give them the extra nutrients they need to grow big and strong.

Make sure you water your vegetable garden thoroughly every day and keep a close eye on it. The most important part of your vegetable garden design is proper maintenance. By paying attention to your plants, you will begin to notice when they are in need of certain things, such as water, certain nutrients and even sunlight.

The perfect vegetable garden design is all about what you are looking for whenever you break ground to plant your seeds. There really is no wrong vegetable garden design. As long as your garden produces and you get the vegetables you set out to grow, you have the perfect vegetable garden design.

Ann Marier has written articles on house and garden topics providing helpful tips and advice. Read all about her latest articles on types of garden design offering a new insight into Garden design

Copyright (c) 2007 Free Online Library
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Simple Seed Saving

2008-07-10T09:06:00.000-07:00

Tomatoes gone wild
This is just one of our plants, it pays to start them in a greenhouse first.

By: Dr. Christopher Kline Email Article
Word Count: 749

Seed saving can be a rewarding and cost saving activity particularly if plants are selected for their good seed saving characteristics. This article will offer the beginning seed saver helpful advice on which plants to start with and how best to harvest, prepare and save the seeds. Bean/pea, lettuce, pepper, and tomato offer the beginning seed saver the best chance for successful seed saving. They produce seed the same season as planted and are mostly self-pollinating, minimizing the need to be mindful of preventing cross-pollination.

Always harvest seeds from the best plants available. Choose healthy disease-free plants with desirable qualities. Look for the most flavorful vegetables or beautiful flowers . Because seed set reduces the vigor of the plant and discourages further fruit production, wait until near the end of the season to save fruit for seed. Seeds are mature when flowers are faded and dry or have puffy tops.

Beans/Peas
Toward the end of the season and while healthy pods are still being formed allow the pods on some plants to dry brown before harvesting. This is about six weeks after eating stage for beans and four for peas. If frost threatens, pull the entire plant, and hang in cool, dry location until pods are brown.

Lettuce
With lettuce you will need to take care to separate varieties flowering at the same time by at least 20 feet to avoid cross pollination. Some outside leaves can still be harvested for eating without harming seed production. Once half the flowers have gone to seed, cut off the entire top of the plant and allow it to dry upside down in an open paper bag for 2-3 weeks.

Peppers
Some care must be taken to separate different varieties by at least 50 feet help ensure purity. Most peppers turn red when fully mature and this is the time to harvest seeds for saving. If frost threatens before peppers mature, pull the entire plant and hang in cool, dry location until peppers mature. Cut open mature peppers and scoop out the seeds. Follow with a gentle washing in a mild 10% bleach solution, and lay the seeds out in a single layer on white paper towels until the seeds have thoroughly dried.

Tomatoes
If possible, allow tomatoes to completely ripen before harvesting for seed production.
Slice open the tomato, squeeze out the pulp and seeds into a glass jar, add water up to about ¾ of the jar, and set aside for a few days. A residue will collect on the top of the water as well as some of the seeds (these are dead seeds). The water will clear and the viable seeds will sink to the bottom of the jar. After five days carefully scoop out the residue from the top and throw it away, pour off the water and then pour out the seeds from the bottom of the jar onto white paper towel for drying.

Seed Storage
Paper envelopes work well for storing each seed variety. Before storing test to make sure the seeds are dry enough by attempting to bend them. If the seeds snap instead of bending they are sufficiently dehydrated for storing. Large mason jars work well for storing your seed envelopes. Prepare a jar for seed storing by placing a small, cloth bag filled with dry, powdered milk in the bottom of the jar. This will help to absorb any moisture from the storage container. Place the seed envelopes in the jar, on top of the bag and tightly seal the jar. Next place the jar in the freezer for two days. This helps to kill any diseases that may be infecting the seeds. Find a place for long term storage that is a cool, dry, and dark where the temperatures remains fairly stable. A garage, storeroom, pantry, closet or even a drawer will work well.

A few weeks before planting time perform a test germination of saved seeds by placing the seeds on three layers of moist white paper towels, roll the towels loosely and place them in a plastic bag. Keep the bag in a warm place until germination occurs. Depending on the type of seeds germination may take anywhere from 2-14 days.

For more information on seed saving visit The International Seed Saving Institute at
http://www.seedsave.org/issi/issi_904.html

Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and sunflower specialist living in Paradise Valley Arizona. He is also an editor for http://www.SunflowerOcity.com The Ultimate Sunflower Site has everything imaginable about sunflowers including great information, links to the best products, sites and discussion boards. You can reach Chris at Chris.Kline@sunflowerOcity.com.

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Gardening Tips You Can Use

2008-07-06T11:19:00.001-07:00

Bring up the topic of gardening in almost any social situation, and you''re bound to receive plenty of gardening advice. Everyone from greenhorn to green thumb has plenty of gardening tips to offer. Some homegrown ideas can produce bountiful results, so ask around and see which ideas grow on you.

There are plenty of sources available when you''re looking for gardening tips . You can read gardening books, catalogues and magazines. You can enquire at a garden center or check the Internet. Of course, you can ask a more seasoned gardener for his or her advice. Gardening methods, tricks and tips can vary depending on the type of garden or variety of plant your tending, but some gardening tips are universal and apply to any type of plant.

Gardening tips for planting tend to by fairly universal. All plants need room to grow, so space them so the roots can develop and the plants won''t overcrowd each other. It''s important to know the amount of sunlight required. Some plants, like hostas, prefer a shady corner of the garden while others, like most annual flowers and vegetables, thrive in open sunlight. Ventilation is also important because like all living things, plants need proper air circulation. Sources offering valuable gardening tips will also tell you to add some type of nutrients to the soil, such as mulch or compost, to help your plants grow bigger and stronger. Every plant will benefit from these general gardening tips.

Watering is a little more specialized. Different varieties of plants require different amounts of water. Obviously, a tomato needs regular watering, but a cactus needs very little. How much you water also depends on the climate. Where you live and how much rain you get can affect your watering guidelines. When seeking and following gardening tips, be sure to take your geography and climate into account.

No matter who is handing out the gardening tips, they''ll be sure to tell you that plants need to be fertilized. This is an essential step to take as soon as you plants, and it''s important to fertilize throughout the growing season. Care must be taken however, because it is possible to over fertilize and harm a growing plant. The type of fertilizer you choose will be dependant on the pH balance and content of your soil. Many garden centers offer soil-testing services. There are many organic and chemical fertilizers on the market, but don''t forget that good old compost can be a very effective alternative. One of the best gardening tips you can get is how to make a compost pile, and how to use compost to feed your plants.

Probably the most sought after gardening tips are how to get rid of pesky insects, critters, weeds and disease. Pests can easily invade and quickly destroy a garden, so it''s important to address the problem at the first sign of danger. Depending on the source of your gardening tips, you may be told to use natural or organic chemical herbicides or pesticides. Some homegrown remedies, such as cayenne pepper to keep the groundhog away, might also hold some value. Ask around to see what has worked for others.

Gardening is a fun hobby and can add great value to your home, but you can find that you''re facing formidable enemies like insects, weeds, disease and weather. Even the most seasoned of gardeners need to find gardening tips from time to time. Friends and other gardeners are a great source for general gardening tips, but if you''re looking for specific advice it will be worthwhile to consult a gardening book or search online for a trusted source.

Anyone who''s ever potted a petunia or grown a geranium will be quick to offer gardening tips. Keep in mind that there will be the occasional bad apple, so choose your advice wisely.
Nancy Anderson contributes articles to several popular online magazines, on home and garden, creative writing, and hobbies and leisure themes.

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Gardening Home Gardening

2008-07-03T10:03:00.000-07:00

Picture taken 6-29-2006
By Rita: Our Home Garden

Over the last few years home gardening has become an increasingly popular past-time and hobby. In fact, studies show that home gardening is at an all time high in America right now. In the United States 8 out of 10 households take part in some type of home gardening activity. Obviously from the number of people that are doing it, home gardening is one of the most popular recreational activities in nation.

Over the last few years home gardening has become an increasingly popular past-time and hobby. In fact, studies show that home gardening is at an all time high in America right now. In the United States 8 out of 10 households take part in some type of home gardening activity. Obviously from the number of people that are doing it, home gardening is one of the most popular recreational activities in nation.

Most people that try their hand at home gardening plant flowers ; at least they start out planting flowers anyway. Roses will probably be the first thought into any gardeners mind, but roses will take extra time and work, and should probably be left to those who have gardened before. When planting flowers many choices are available, such as bulbs, perennials, and annuals.

Edible plants are another big thing in home gardening. Perhaps the best thing about edibles is the reward of eating them. The list of edible plants that gardeners can grow at home is endless. Some of the most common edible plants in the vegetable arena are, potatoes, peas, corn, carrots, squash, and cucumber. Many gardeners opt for fruits, such as, watermelons, tomatoes, peaches, plums, apples, pears, and apricots. Small fruits, such as strawberries, blueberries, and raspberries usually require less work and less space, making them much more feasible for home gardening. Herbs, most often used as spices in cooking, are growing in popularity every day; some of the most grown include basil, thyme, oregano, parsley, and cilantro. One of the most important things to watch for when planting edibles is insects and disease, after all, you don''t want to miss out on the feast you will get to enjoy from healthy plants.

Many people don't realize it, but landscaping is a form of home gardening. Landscaping covers many different areas and forms of gardening. You can even classify mowing your lawn as landscaping! Keeping in the line of grasses, landscaping nearly always involves decorative grasses, and the great thing about them is they don''t take much work for upkeep. Types of grass include monkey grass, pampas, buffalo grass, flame grass, and ornamental millet. Landscaping is not just limited to plant life, but also includes anything done to a yard for decoration, such as adding rocks or stones, putting a small pond, statutes, or a waterfall.

There isn''t much difference between home gardening and gardening anywhere else. Plants still need to be planted in a good location. The plants still need water and they still need the same nutrients. Home gardening shouldn't cause anyone to get nervous. If you do decide to try homing gardening and finding out that you don''t have a green thumb, don''t get discouraged. Get some information, read up on gardening, and try it again the next planting season.
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Amazing Garden Progress

2008-06-27T16:27:00.000-07:00

Hi Folks: This is my weekly progress report on our garden, it's amazing how much some plants will grow in only a weeks time and others are slow to grow. I am so excited and can not wait to start eating and freezing the vegetables and fruits we are growing.

First is our Romaine lettuce, it's growing tall and strong.

Next is 2 out of 5 of our tomato plants, they are another parts of a good salad.

This is one of our squash plants (good for our salad and stir fry) that I am training to grow up my homemade fence so that they don't over come our garden.

Look closely and you'll see we have string beans on our plants, another stir fry ingredients.

Our corn field is six per row times 3 rows, just a little corn field but enough for two people, I will be freezing them for later use, that is if we do better that last year, the biggest cob we got was about four inches long.

This is our potato bin, as a first time grower of potatoes we have to play it by ear. From the looks of it they seem to be doing well but only time will tell.

Our small pumpkin patch looks to be doing well, my husband want to try and grow the largest pumpkin around. Keep looking to see if he succeeds.

This is a picture of what they call a tomato tree. I ordered two plants or what they said were plants and it turned out to be seeds in those bio-degradable containers. Anyway we kept them and watered them, they are growing well, their leaves are hairy, not like other tomato plants. Only time will tell if they produce the tomatoes that they claim they will grow. Plant cuttings

Plant Cuttings:

2008-06-26T19:14:00.000-07:00

The Basics For Better Survival Rate For Your Cuttings
by: STEVE BOULDEN

While propagating and taking cuttings for new plants isn’t generally involved in any new landscaping projects, it is sometimes a question from clients with existing gardens and landscapes. Most times it's to duplicate an exact plant, expand mass plantings, or make plants for new areas. For most people, however, it’s too much trouble and much easier to simply buy new plants. For others, it’s enjoyable, relaxing, and rewarding to see the results.

Exact methods of taking cuttings and best time of year vary for different plants. The best survival rate depends on how and when you take cuttings. This is basic and in most propagation guidelines. However, these two considerations are both often over looked and cause for failure. You simply can’t just take a cutting from any plant at any time of year and expect great results.

Softwood cuttings are best taken in late spring when there is vigorous growth and new branches have leaves of different sizes. At this stage they root easily but still need a lot of care. Semi-hardwood cuttings should be taken when the leaves are full size and the branches are beginning to get stiff. This is usually late summer. Hardwood cuttings should be taken in dead of winter but will not begin to root until spring. Soft stemmed plants and flowers can generally be taken in any season and will root quite easily.

Use a clean knife with a very sharp blade or well sharpened pruning shears. A clean cut and a clean knife will help safeguard against diseases. Clean the blade between plants with rubbing alcohol or bleach. Wipe off excess and dry the blade.
Leaves left on cutting will continue to produce nutrients and energy for the plant and developing roots. If your cuttings do require leaves left on the stem, cut them in half. This way more energy will be channeled to growing roots rather than feeding leaves. Again, use a clean sharp blade.

It’s very important that the plants don’t have to struggle for moisture and that they’re not allowed to dry out. The planting medium should be kept moist but not soaking wet. Mist several times a day or cover the plants with plastic so that humidity and moisture stay high around the cuttings. Make sure the plastic doesn’t stay in contact with the plantings. It could cause burn, mold, or disease to form. Use props such as sticks to prop up the plastic.

These are just a few of the considerations to ensure the survival of your cuttings. With these in mind, you will increase your chances for more of your plants to take root and survive. Article from The Landscape Design Site which offers free home landscaping ideas, garden plans, pictures, and professional advice. For more landscaping and garden ideas visit his site at www.the-landscape-design-site.com.

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FIRES IN PARADISE/BUTTE COUNTY

2008-06-25T15:54:00.000-07:00

Article and Photo's by Florita

The other day the thunderhead clouds rolled in to Paradise, the skies rumbled and the lightening struck. The firemen had already put out a large fire the week before the was daubed the Humboldt fire, loosing about 75 homes. This was the last thing our county needed more fires.

The lightening sparked several more fires in our county, as of today they are still fighting them trying not to loose any more homes. We thank all the fire departments for all their hard work.

I took this picture today (6-23-06) of our garden and to show you how smoky it is here in Paradise. The picture also has a tree covered in ivy that we prune to look like that. It is unusual don't you think, we keep pruning it so the other part of the tree doesn't block the sun from hitting our garden . We need all the full sun we can get.

Cooking Asparagus The Fun And Easy Way

2008-06-24T07:28:00.000-07:00

By Jon Griffin [ 04/07/2007 ]

Preparation is the key when you're going to cook asparagus. There are several methods of cooking boiling, grilling, steaming, or roasting. The microwave is also a good option when cooking asparagus. Cut the asparagus into sections and you can use it in stir fries you can also blanch the asparagus and use it in vegetable dips. Of course, there's nothing like steamed asparagus with butter, salt, and pepper.

When buying asparagus make sure that it is fresh, the asparagus will taste much better and can be kept for two to three days when properly stored. Once you get the asparagus home and ready to prepare, you'll need to trim it. The easiest way to trim asparagus before cooking is to simply do it by hand by bending the stock until it breaks. If it will not break but only bends, it is probably old and will not be as fresh as you would like it. Some cooks prefer to peel the bottom of the stocks this is not really necessary but sometimes helps when the stocks are a little woody. Contrary to popular belief the thicker asparagus is actually more flavorful than the pencil thin variety that most people want to buy.

An easy way to peel asparagus if you decide to go that route, is to lay a stalk on the counter or a cutting board and use a vegetable peeler. Starting at the top of the asparagus peel all the way to the end. The main reason anybody would peel asparagus, as I mentioned above, would be to make the asparagus more tender. You don't need to completely peel the asparagus either, simply peel down one one side to allow moisture to enter the asparagus while it is cooking.

If you want to steam the asparagus here is a simple method. After you have trimmed your asparagus to the size you need, and optionally peeled it, place them in a saucepan and about an inch of water. Another steaming method you can use when cooking asparagus is to stand them vertically. Make sure you tie the bundles at the bottom and the top so they don't fall over in the pan. They should steam for approximately 5 to 10 minutes depending on the thickness.

Boiling is a great way to cook asparagus also. You want to use just enough water to cover the asparagus but make sure all the stems face the same direction and are covered with water. The asparagus will take between four to six minutes to cook completely, but again that depends on the size.

One method I really enjoy is using the grill. Cooking asparagus on the grill either directly over the fire or on skewers gives a great smoky flavor. Depending how you like them, cook the asparagus for anywhere from 30 seconds to 10 minutes. Another great way to cook the asparagus is to wrap them in foil with a little bit of olive oil and salt and pepper and cook them on the grill for 10-20 minutes. You'll have a great treat.

On those winter days when you really don't want to cook asparagus on the BBQ, another great option is roasting. Simply heat the oven to 425° F, and lay the asparagus flat on a baking sheet lined with foil. You can put any seasoning you want on the asparagus when roasting; salt, pepper, lemon pepper or any other spice that you have on hand are good. You will be rewarded with a nice tender stalk with a roasted flavor in about two to three minutes.

About the author:
Jon Griffin has been playing music since he was 7 years old. He is also an avid cook and expert in beer, brewing and other beverages. He owns salsablanca.com and learningaboutstuff.com

He went to Grove School of Music where he studied songwriting and composing and arranging (yes it was fun doing a big band chart every week!).

Article Source: http://www.Free-Articles-Zone.com

Saving Seed

2008-06-20T15:32:00.000-07:00

by J.E. Ells and D. Whiting1

Quick Facts...
Home Gardeners were perpetuating and improving vegetable varieties through seed selection before there were commercial seed producers. Garden plants are wind, insect or self-pollinated.

Seed saved from self-pollinated Crops are most likely to come true to variety. Biennial Crops do not bear seed the first year. Hybrids do not come true from seed.
The art of saving seed has been practiced by Gardeners long before there were commercial seed producers. In fact, most of the vegetables and flowers we have today owe their existence to the fact that these early Gardeners, with an eye for quality, saved the seed of their best plants, sowed them the next year, and in this way improved the species.

In recent years, the responsibility for maintaining and improving vegetable seed has been assumed by seed companies; however, it is still possible for home Gardeners to save their own seed. To do so successfully, they must be familiar with the basics.

Plants in the Garden come from either seed or transplants. True seed possesses an embryo in a dormant state. Under the right conditions, it breaks dormancy and produces a plant based on its genetic makeup. Transplants, on the other hand, are living plants or plant parts that begin to grow under favorable conditions without benefit of an embryo. In this group are bulbs, tubers, corms, cuttings ("slips") and whole living plants.

It is still common practice for home Gardeners to dig dahlia and gladiolus before the ground freezes. However, it is not so common for Gardeners to save the seed of flowers and vegetables . This is perhaps because seeds are relatively inexpensive and seed producers have a reputation for selling seed that germinates well and is true to the variety named on the package.

Before saving seed, consider the method of pollination, the time of seed bearing, whether the plant is a hybrid, and the manner of seed collection.

Pollination Methods
There are three pollination methods of concern to the home Gardener: air-borne, insect and self. If the seed produced is to have the same genetic composition of its parents, it must be pollinated with pollen from the same variety.

In the case of air-borne pollinated Crops, there must be no other varieties within a mile shedding pollen at the same time. If there is, some of the harvested seed will result from a cross between these two varieties. The closer the varieties are located, the higher the percentage of crossing.

If a crop is insect pollinated, there should be 1/4 mile separating varieties. Otherwise, some of the seed saved may result from the crossing of the varieties located within this 1/4-mile radius.

Self-pollinated Crops offer the best opportunity for a home Gardener to save seed because the pollen is transferred directly to the stigma within the flower. Even though this occurs automatically, there is some pollen that escapes and can be transferred to an adjacent variety. To avoid this, separate varieties by a few rows of another crop.

These requirements are closely observed by commercial seed producers, who are much more concerned about trueness-to-variety than the average home Gardener. However, if home Gardeners totally ignore these guides, they will be disappointed in the results.

How Vegetables Are Pollinated

Air-borne pollen vegetables
Beets
Corn
Spinach
Swiss chard

Insect-borne pollen vegetables
Asparagus
Broccoli
Brussels sprouts
Cabbage
Carrots
Cauliflower
Celeriac
Celery
Chinese cabbage
Collards
Cucumber
Eggplant
Kale Kohlrabi
Melons
Mustard
Onions
Parsley
Parsnips
Peppers
Pumpkin
Squash
Radishes
Rutabaga
Turnips

Self-pollinated vegetables
Beans
Chicory
Endive
Lettuce
Peas
Tomatoes

Biennial vegetables
Beets
Brussels sprouts
Cabbage
Carrots
Celeriac
Celery
Collards
Florence fennel
Kale
Kohlrabi Leeks
Onions
Parsley
Parsnips
Radishes, winter
Rutabaga
Salsify
Swiss chard
Turnips

Root Crops
Not all Garden plants produce their seed at the end of the growing season. The most noteworthy exception are the biennials. This group, which includes most of the root Crops, grows vegetatively the first season. To obtain seed, the roots are dug in the fall and stored between 32 and 45 degrees F through the winter. As soon as the weather permits, replant the roots to produce seed stalks and seed.

Hybrids
Hybrids result from a deliberate cross between two inbred lines. They are becoming increasingly popular among vegetables because they usually are more vigorous and uniform than open-pollinated varieties. They afford built-in protection for the seed producer, because they do not come true from seed. Seed saved from hybrids produces many different plant types and is a disappointment for any Gardener who has unknowingly saved and planted hybrid seed. Only the person who controls the original parents can produce this hybrid seed. Nearly all corn varieties are hybrid. Other vegetables may be. To be sure, check the package to see if it says "F1 hybrid." F2 plants are not hybrids and lend themselves to seed savings.

Harvesting Seed
Seed producers have developed some very ingenious equipment for harvesting, extracting and cleaning seed. The home Gardener, however, will have to do with available utensils. Seed is extracted from fruit after it ripens and before it rots. Leave summer squash and cucumbers on the vine until after frost, just like winter squash and pumpkin. Separate the seed from its pulp and dry at room temperature.

Leave pod Crops on the vine until the pod dries. Harvest before the seed is dispersed. Similarly, harvest seed heads after they dry but before dispersal.

Storage
Once the seed is dried, gently hand rub to rid it of any chaff, then store in an envelope in a cool, dry, rodent-free place. The seed will germinate best the following year. Thereafter, its germination percentage declines in accordance with the storage conditions, seed type and original seed quality. It is, therefore, best to replant every year and then select the best plants for seed.

1J.E. Ells, Colorado State University Extension vegetable crop specialist and associate professor (retired), horticulture and landscape architecture. Reviewed by D. Whiting, Colorado State University Extension specialist, consumer horticulture and Colorado Master Gardener coordinator and resident instructor. 2/96. Reviewed 3/08.

Colorado State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and Colorado counties cooperating. CSU Extension programs are available to all without discrimination. No endorsement of products mentioned is intended nor is criticism implied of products not mentioned.

I want to thank the authors of this article for sharing there tips and knowledge about saving vegetable seeds. I'm sure my readers will enjoy learning how to save their seeds. Especially since the price of seeds are climbing in cost.

Garden 6-19-2008

2008-06-19T11:10:00.000-07:00

Today we have to weed outside of the garden because our plants that have tendrils are starting to grasp a hold of them, I gently unhooked them and attached them to the line we have running around our garden.

I also went out and sprayed our plants with dish soap and water mixture(like in my previous article) to kill the ants and bugs that were eating at the leaves, ants really like to chew up sunflower plants but I got them little buggers.

Our Garden is really starting to grow, in only one week we can really tell the difference

Look at our pumpkin, we now need to train them to grow where we want them to go.

Squash Plant, it's tenticles started to latch on to weeds outside our garden , I had to hook them to our line we have running around as a fence.

One of our bhut jolokia plants

How to Keep Food Fresh Naturally

2008-06-18T19:23:00.000-07:00

By Jack Reider [ 11/02/2007 ]

How can you ensure your food lasts longer and keeps fresh?
There are many things you can do, such as regularly clean your refrigerator and regularly check the food in there and also that you keep in the cupboards or anywhere else. But its not just about checking them. This cannot prevent anything. All you will be doing is throwing away food items before they stink up the entire kitchen. So, what can you do to keep the food fresh?

Practical List of Tips for Ensuring Food is Cleaner and Fresher:
1) Spread some cloves on and around the marble surface of your kitchen, and also spread some cloves under the sink.
Why?
The Cloves keeps ants away.

2) Place some bay leaves inside your bags of dough, rice and the rest of the packs that insects prefer.
Why?
Bay leaves keep insects and other such lice away from food products. By placing bay leaves inside the packets, we ensure that insects do not reside there. But please remember to change the bay leaves once every three months.

3) Place half a potato in the refrigerator.
Why?
If there is any kind of bad smell from food or cooked items, the half potato will absorb it. To make sure that this works, remember to exchange the potato every three days.

4) Store eggs with the pointed side down.
Why?
Storing eggs with the pointed side down keeps them fresh for a longer period.

5) Place a few cubes of sugar in the jar where you store American cheese.
Why?
When you place two or three cubes of sugar with the American cheese in an air tight jar, the sugar absorbs the moisture and prevents the cheese from getting bad.

6) Do not store tomatoes and cucumbers in the same draw.
Why?
Tomatoes give out gases that cause cucumbers to rot faster so make sure that you keep these two apart.

7) Do not store apples along with the rest of the fruits and vegetables .
Why?
Apples give out certain gases that cause fruits and vegetables to rot.

8) Place slices of apples or raw potatoes in the bread compartment or jar.
Why?
By adding a few slices of raw potatoes or apples with the bread, you ensure that the bread remains fresh for longer than usual.

9) Store radish in a vessel along with some water.
Why?
You should store radish in a vessel along with water because water will keep the radish fresh and crisp for a long time. For the same reason, if the radishes have shriveled, place them in a jar of cold water. Water will restore the radish to its previous splendor.

Conclusion:
Here, I have presented only a few of the more practical actions you should follow to ensure that the food you and your family consume remains fresh and tasty.

About the author:

When Jack Reider is not reviewing online casinos and gambling halls, he avidly cooks and specializes in fresh food cooking, something he learnt in one of his trips to India. He prefers making Indian dishes such as all kinds of curries.

Thank you Jack for the great tips.
Article Source: http://www.Free-Articles-Zone.com

The Magic Of Blueberries – Sweet, Juicy And Good For Your Health

2008-06-16T18:59:00.000-07:00

By Michael Thomson [ 24/10/2007 ]

Blueberry muffins, blueberry cream pies, blueberry cheesecake, blueberry pancake, fresh moist blueberries....just reading the words is enough to evoke that summer-sweet, luscious tang and get your mouth watering.

Everyone knows blueberries are delicious, but did you know they're good for your health too? In fact, blueberries have been touted as the cure for a host of serious medical problems including urinary infections, diabetes, high cholesterol levels to Alzheimer's and cancer.

First let's look at what exactly blueberries are. Blueberries are the fruit of flowering plants native to North America, now also grown in Australia, New Zealand and some South American countries such as Chile and Argentina. Blueberries are cultivated and picked wild.

The blueberry season in North America tends to run from mid-May to September, depending on the latitude. The fruit is best enjoyed in season when the taste is at its peak and the nutritional value at its highest. The dark blue berries can be enjoyed raw, or more commonly made into cookies, cakes, pies, scones, cereals, jellies and jams, and even pizzas.

So what's so special about blueberries?

It could be said that the blueberry is a nutritional powerhouse. Blueberries are are a rich source of vitamin C, vitamin A, potassium, folate, iron, manganese and vitamin K. And 140 grams of fresh blueberries contain three grams of the dietary fiber that's so good for your digestive system. But the main benefits of blueberries come from the anti-oxidants they contain in the form of bioflavonoids.

Antioxidants are important for their ability to neutralize free radicals. When our body processes oxygen, free radicals are produced as by-products. These are highly-volatile substances that can damage our cells and are thought to be responsible for aging and a host of degenerative diseases. Fortunately, substances known as anti-oxidants found in fruits and vegetables work to neutralize free radicals and reduce their potency. Better known bioflavonoids include hesperidin and rutin and the anthocyanins.

Blueberries are especially rich in anthocyanins. They give blueberries their deep blue hue and offer a range of beneficial properties. For one thing, they're anti-inflammatory and protect large and small blood vessels from oxidative damage. This can protect blood vessels from damage caused by high blood-sugar levels in diabetics. This is especially important for the blood vessels in the eyes.

Researchers have shown that the anthocyanins in blueberries, along with other agents such as proanthocyanidins, flavonols and tannins, inhibit mechanisms of cancer cell development in vitro. And one of the more exciting findings about blueberries is that they can help arrest the mental decline that occurs with Alzheimer's Disease.

So what's the best way to get your dose of blueberries? Eating them raw is best but this is not always convenient. Fortunately, there are many ways to prepare blueberries that helps bring out their delightful flavor to its best advantage. The most popular is you can also make the old fashioned Blueberry pie just like your grandma used to make. The herbs cinnamon and mace compliment the taste of the blueberries and the result is delightful. It's just one of many ways to incorporate blueberries into your diet.

So make blueberries a part of your diet. Not only will you have a delicious new taste in your life, but you'll also be doing your health a world of good. Search out some recipes online that show you new and exciting ways to incorporate the blueberry experience into you life.

About the author:
More information and tips about Blueberry recipes and how to make Blueberry pie.

Article Source: http://www.Free-Articles-Zone.com

Beans, Beans and More Bean

2008-06-14T10:19:00.000-07:00

By Emma Snow [ 02/04/2007 ]

Dry beans are among some of the healthiest foods on the planet. Beans are not only a complex carbohydrate, which provides sustained energy throughout the day, but also have many important nutrients such as, calcium, potassium, protein and folate. Plus, you get these benefits without the fat and cholesterol that meat or dairy products might contain. Many Americans do not get the recommended daily fiber they need (25-30 grams a day) and beans are an excellent way to meet these requirements. A cup of cooked black beans contains 8 grams of fiber and a cup of cooked pinto beans contains 12 grams.

One concern when cooking beans is the amount of time they take to fully process. There are a few things that can be done to help with this problem. The first is soaking beans over night. Soaking overnight will help the beans absorb moisture and shorten the time needed to cook them. Another excellent idea is to cook beans in the crock pot over night on low. In the morning they are fully cooked and ready to use or store. They can be rinsed, drained and stored up to a week in the refrigerator or frozen for several months. When cooking or soaking beans do not add salts to the pot or bowl, as salt will prevent the beans from fully cooking and will result in hard beans.

What do you do with your beans? There is no end to the healthy, useful ways to use dry beans in your everyday cooking and baking. The traditional and most frequent use of beans is simply cooked and placed in soups or chili's, mixed with rice or used as a side dish. Although those are excellent ways to incorporate beans into your diet there are many other ways as well.

One of the best kept secrets about beans is their ability to be ground into a fine flour. White beans are recommended as the best choice for bean flour. Bean flour can be substituted for 25% of flour in any recipe. For example, if a recipe calls for 2 cups all purpose flour, 1/2 cup bean flour may be used. For those whose families might not be receptive to beans on the table this is a great way to sneak them in. All the benefits of beans will be received in every day items like cookies and bread and no one will be the wiser. It is not recommended to tell them either as this might influence their interest in the items prepared. Bean flour can also be used to make soups creamy without dairy. To make 4 cups of "cream" soup simply heat 2 cups of water in a pan (do not boil) and 4 tsp chicken bouillon (or bouillon of choice). Combine 2 cups cold water with 1 cup bean flour and whisk until there are no lumps. Combine this flour paste with the heated water and bouillon and simmer of low for 10-15 minutes, stirring occasionally. To make a thinner soup use less bean flour. Spices, vegetables or meat may be added to the soup base for a delicious and nutritious creamy soup without the calories, fat and dairy, plus this creamy soup has all the health of beans. This recipe may also be substituted for creamy condensed soups in casseroles or other dishes.

The other best kept secret is the use of pureed white beans in place of shortening, butter or margarine in baked goods. After the beans are cooked simply drain and place in a food processor, blender or mash with a fork to create a puree. It should be about the consistency of the fat you are replacing and may be substituted cup for cup or simply for half the fat in the recipe. If the beans are too thick and/or dry, just add a little water and stir in completely. Many ask, "how does it taste" [in cookies, etc.] and the answer is, you can't even tell! The foods are delicious and nutritious!

Beans will be filling, satisfying and incorporate many necessary nutrients into the diet. Combined with rice they are a complete protein and provide all the 8 amino acids for the body. They are inexpensive and packed full of flavor. It doesn't get much better than beans.

About the Author:
Emma Snow is a gourmet and freelance writer. Writing for Gourmet Living http://www.gourmet-living.com and Organic Items http://www.organic-items.com .

Our Granddaughter and Garden 6-11-2008

2008-06-11T11:46:00.000-07:00

Jada and Our Potato Planter

Our 6 year old granddaughter, excuse me she said almost 7 because her birthday is the first week of August spent the night last night. She loves to come and help work in our garden and yard. She is learning how to use various types of lawn and garden tools. Today she will be learning to use a hand pruners and cultivators as I call them. She had already used the large clippers to cut back the ivy so to keep it away from our garden area. She is so cute out there working with her little hands. Here are some of our new garden pictures I took today.

Jada posing in our small corn field

I was so excited when we went to check out the progress of the garden today, I haven't been out there for a few days. You see I work 12 hours a day at the local hospital and by the time I get home I'm tired and just want to rest. And since our garden has an automatic watering system we installed it doesn't require daily work. So on my days off like today I get to see the changes in the growth process.

Jada standing behind one of our Tomato plants

I took several pictures of our gardens progress today, Jada wanted to be in some of the pictures and I thought that it was a great idea. It is also a way to see how tall some of the plants are in comparison to my granddaughter, Jada. The above pictures are her and three of our vegetables.

The next pictures are of some of our other vegetables that have small vegetables growing on them, I can taste them already.

Squash, peas and hot pepper plants bearing fruit

Next is the pride of the lot since they have been so temperamental to grow, these are pictures of our Bhut Jolokia hot pepper plants. So far they look like they are doing fairly well considering this is our first try at growing them. Only time will tell, we still will have to hand pollinate them so they will produce the peppers, we are already keeping them isolated in our greenhouse so they will be pure bhut jolokia's. We will keep updating you as to their progress.

Bhut Jolokia Plants

Shitake Mushrooms, A Fungus with Many Uses

2008-06-10T17:45:00.001-07:00

By Anne Harvester [ 28/01/2008 ]

You might not think of mushrooms as bulk organic herbs, but when dried and crushed into a powder, these edible fungi can add a delicate flavor to many dishes, particularly Asian ones. Although gourmet mushrooms such as the shitake can be expensive, you’ll pay less when buying wholesale. Shitake mushroom is perhaps one of the most flavorful of these, and because it is relatively easy to cultivate, the price has been dropping in recent years.

An Ancient Cultivar

Bulk organic herbs go back a long way in history, but the idea of using mushrooms in the same way as dried herbs is a fairly new idea, going back only a thousand years or so – and wholesale shitake mushroom have only been widely and relatively cheap in the West in the past ten or twelve years, and are now a significant part of the herbs wholesale market.

Technically known as lentinula edodes, the shitake (also spelled shitake) mushroom is native to the temperate forests of China, where it is known as shiang-ju, and Korea, where it is called the pyogo, as well as Japan. In the Southeast Asian countries of Thailand and Vietnam, the shitake has been called hed hom and nấm hương respectively – both of which mean “fragrant mushroom.” It is perhaps the king of bulk organic herbs.

There are records of shitake mushrooms being eaten dating back to China’s Han Dynasty, 2000 years ago. However, they were not deliberately cultivated until the Song Dynasty, roughly a millennium later.

Medicinal Uses

Like many dried herbs, the shitake appears to have beneficial health effects as well. Wu Juei, a Chinese physician during the Ming Period, found that in the form of powdered dried herbs, shitakes were an excellent treatment for respiratory ailments, circulatory and liver disease as well as a stimulant.

As far as modern medicine is concerned, the shitake mushroom has been demonstrated to have tumor-inhibiting properties, and has shown promise as a treatment for arterial thrombosis. Wholesale shitake mushroom can also provide vegans with a non-animal source of vitamin D.

Shitake in the Kitchen

No kitchen is complete without a good supply of bulk organic herbs, and bulk herbs like dried shitakes are no exception – especially for fans of Asian cuisine. Shitakes are one of the bulk herbs used in miso soul as well as vegetarian dashi, and is also an important ingredient in Korean dishes like bulgogi and jigae.

You’ll save on bulk organic herbs when you buy your herbs wholesale. Although technically a fungus, shitake mushrooms are among the increasing number of bulk organic herbs now being cultivated in all parts of the world, meaning that buying herbs wholesale is now easier and less expensive than ever. Getting your bulk herbs at a discount wholesale price means you have no excuse for not having your kitchen well-stocked with fine bulk organic herbs for those exotic, far-eastern dishes.

About the author:
As an herbalist who has studied the benefits and history of many bulk organic herbs, Anne Harvester discusses the history and uses of the wholesale shitake mushroom. Annes advice for purchasing herbs wholesale can save you time and money.

Article Source: http://www.Free-Articles-Zone.com

Preserving Food: Freezing Vegetables

2008-06-07T16:27:00.000-07:00

Our Garden

This article is to help educate home gardeners to be able to save their vegetable for future use.

By: Judy A. Harrison and Elizabeth Andress; adapted for use in Florida by Amy Simonne

Freezing is an excellent way to preserve fresh vegetables at home. Freezing does not sterilize food; the extreme cold simply retards growth of microorganisms and slows down changes that affect quality or cause spoilage in food.
The quality of frozen vegetables depends on the quality of the fresh products and how they are handled from the time they are picked until they are ready to eat. It is important, also, to start with high-quality vegetables because freezing will not improve the product's quality.

Selecting Freezer Containers
Before preparing vegetables for freezing, assemble the containers you will use. The selection of containers depends on the vegetable being frozen, personal preference and the types that are readily available. Containers should be moisture-vapor resistant, durable, easy to seal and should not become brittle at low temperatures.
Containers suitable for freezing vegetables include plastic freezer containers, flexible freezer bags and protective cardboard cartons, or glass canning jars. Foods packed in wide-mouth jars are easier to remove than those packed in narrow-mouth jars.
Some household containers are not recommended for freezing. The cardboard cartons that milk, ice cream or cottage cheese come in are not moisture-vapor resistant enough. Regular (not canning) jars break too easily at freezer temperatures.

Preparing the Vegetables
Use vegetables at peak flavor and texture for freezing. Whenever possible, harvest in the cool part of the morning and freeze within a few hours. Wash vegetables thoroughly in cold water, lifting them out of water as grit settles to the bottom of the washing container. Sort according to size for blanching and packing.

Blanching
Blanching (scalding vegetables in boiling water or steam for a short period of time) is a must for almost all vegetables to be frozen. Blanching slows or stops the action of enzymes that can cause loss of flavor, color and texture. Blanching cleanses the surface of dirt and organisms, brightens the color and helps retard loss of vitamins. Blanching also wilts or softens vegetables and makes them easier to pack.

Blanching time is crucial and varies with the vegetable and its size. Underblanching stimulates the activity of enzymes and is worse than no blanching. Overblanching causes loss of flavor, color, vitamins and minerals. See the directions for freezing each vegetable for the correct blanching times.

Water Blanching -- For home freezing, the most satisfactory way to heat all vegetables is in boiling water. Use a blancher with a blanching basket and cover, or fit a wire basket into a large kettle with a lid.
Use one gallon of water per pound of prepared vegetables. Put the vegetables in a blanching basket and lower into vigorously boiling water. Place a lid on the blancher and start counting blanching time as soon as the water returns to a boil. Keep heat high for the time given in the directions for the vegetables you are freezing.

Steam Blanching -- Heating in steam is recommended for a few vegetables. For broccoli, pumpkin, sweet potatoes and winter squash, both steaming and boiling are satisfactory methods. Steam blanching takes about 1-1/2 times longer than water blanching.
To steam, use a kettle with a tight lid and a basket that holds the food at least three inches above the bottom of the kettle. Put an inch or two of water in the kettle and bring the water to a boil.
Put the vegetables in the basket in a single layer so steam reaches all parts quickly. Cover the kettle and keep heat high. Start counting steaming time as soon as the lid is on. Steam blanch for the time recommended for each vegetable.

Microwave Blanching -- Microwave blanching is not recommended. Research has shown that some enzymes may not be inactivated. Flavors could be off and texture and color lost. If you choose to risk low quality vegetables by microwave blanching, work in small quantities, using the directions for your specific microwave oven. Microwave blanching has not been shown to save time or energy.

Cooling
As soon as blanching is complete, cool vegetables quickly and thoroughly to stop the cooking process. To cool, plunge the basket of vegetables immediately into a large quantity of cold water, 60°F or below. Change water frequently or use cold running water or iced water. If ice is used, have about one pound of ice for each pound of vegetables. Cooling vegetables should take the same amount of time as blanching.
Drain vegetables thoroughly after cooling. Extra moisture can cause a loss of quality when vegetables are frozen.

Types of Pack
Two basic packing methods are recommended for frozen vegetables -- dry pack and tray pack.

Dry Pack -- Place the blanched and drained vegetables into meal-size freezer bags or containers. Pack tightly to cut down on the amount of air in the package. Leave 1/2-inch headspace at the top of rigid containers and close securely. For freezer bags, fill to within three inches of the top, twist and fold back top of bag; tie with a twist or rubber band about 1/2- to 3/4-inch from the food. This will allow space for the food to expand. Provision for headspace is not necessary for foods such as broccoli, asparagus and brussel sprouts that do not pack tightly in containers.

Tray Pack -- Place chilled, well-drained vegetables in a single layer on shallow trays or pans. Place in freezer until firm, then remove and quickly fill bags or containers. Close and freeze immediately. Tray-packed foods do not freeze in a block, but remain loose, so the amount needed can be poured from the container and the package re-closed.

Labeling and Storing
Label packages with the name of the product and the freezing date. Freeze at once at 0°F or lower. Because speed in freezing is important for best quality, put no more unfrozen vegetables into the freezer at one time than will freeze in 24 hours -- usually two to three pounds of vegetables per cubic foot of freezer space.
For quickest freezing, place packages against the refrigerated surface of the freezer. After vegetables are frozen, rearrange the packages and store close together. Most vegetables maintain high quality for 8 to 12 months at 0°F or lower. Longer storage will not make food unfit for use, but may impair quality.
It is a good idea to post a list of the frozen vegetables near the freezer and to check off packages as they used. Remember, frozen vegetables should be cooked without thawing.

Footnotes
1. This document is FCS8768, one of a series of the Family Youth and Community Sciences Department, Florida Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida. Original publication date August 1, 2004. Reviewed August 16, 2007. Visit the EDIS Web Site at http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu.
2. Adapted for use in Florida by Amy Simonne, associate professor, Food Safety and Quality, Department of Family, Youth and Community Sciences, Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, Gainesville, FL 32611. With permission, this publication contains the full text of Preserving Food: Freezing Vegetables, edited by Judy A. Harrison, Ph.D., and Elizabeth L. Andress, Ph.D., Extension Foods Specialists, the University of Georgia and Ft. Valley State University, and the U.S. Department of Agriculture and counties of the state of Georgia cooperating; and additional information from the National Center for Home Food Preservation website: http://www.uga.edu/nchfp/

The Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (IFAS) is an Equal Opportunity Institution authorized to provide research, educational information and other services only to individuals and institutions that function with non-discrimination with respect to race, creed, color, religion, age, disability, sex, sexual orientation, marital status, national origin, political opinions or affiliations. For more information on obtaining other extension publications, contact your county Cooperative Extension service.

U.S. Department of Agriculture, Cooperative Extension Service, University of Florida, IFAS, Florida A. & M. University Cooperative Extension Program, and Boards of County Commissioners Cooperating. Larry Arrington, Dean.

Copyright Information
This document is copyrighted by the University of Florida, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences (UF/IFAS) for the people of the State of Florida. UF/IFAS retains all rights under all conventions, but permits free reproduction by all agents and offices of the Cooperative Extension Service and the people of the State of Florida. Permission is granted to others to use these materials in part or in full for educational purposes, provided that full credit is given to the UF/IFAS, citing the publication, its source, and date of publication.

Our Garden

2008-06-06T08:48:00.000-07:00

Here is a picture of our garden after I weeded it today, our plants are doing wonderful. My mouth waters every time I think of all those fresh vegetables we will soon be eating.

There are tomatoes on the vines and flowers on the squash, cucumbers, and pumpkins. The bell peppers and eggplants are a little slow growing but will catch up soon. And look at the corn, we didn't have much luck last year with it, produced only tiny ears of corn, so we moved where we planted it last year a long with changing the direction of the rows. Will keep you all posted as to how well our corn does this year.

I plan on cutting and freezing our vegetable into stir fry vegetable packs for future meals, and hopefully we'll have enough to last all winter.

Garden Update

2008-06-05T15:33:00.000-07:00

Pumpkins_Bells_Tomato Trees_Corn_Tomato_Lettuce_Potatoes_Bhut Jolokia Peppers

The above photos are of our garden, they were taken today June 5th, 2008 by myself. Our plants seem to be doing better this year considering we don't get as much sun as we should have. That is why we first started them from seed in our inside greenhouse, then as it got warmer we moved them to our greenhouse outside where we left them until they were ready to be planted in our outside garden site.

We are growing bhut jolokia plants that we also started from seed, this is the first time trying to grow these hot peppers. Through a lot of reading and trial and error it looks like so far we are doing better than what we expected.

Now we are keeping only the bhut jolokia plants inside the greenhouse so that they don't pollinate with any other plants. Doing this means that we will have to hand pollinate them by hand with a fine paint brush.

Only time will tell how successful we will be at growing the hottest pepper in the world. But you never know unless you try, if we don't succeed this year at least we will learn and try again next year. But I am betting we will do okay by the looks of them.

Hand Pollination

2008-06-05T09:32:00.000-07:00

This article is for those who isolate there plants and have to pollinate by hand so they don't crossbreed and those plants grown in greenhouses .

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Hand pollination (also called "mechanical pollination") is a technique used when natural, or open pollination is insufficient or undesirable. The most common techniques are for crops such as cucurbits, which may exhibit poor pollination by fruit abortion, fruit deformity or poor maturation. Hand pollination is only an option on a small scale, but is a common technique by gardeners who transfer pollen with an artist brush or cotton swab. Sometimes the corolla is removed from male flowers and the flower itself is brushed against the stigmas of female flowers.

Hand pollination can be the simple act of shaking, with tomatoes and other self fertile flowers. Tomatoes grown in greenhouses generally need aid in pollination, and this has been done by hand or with an electric vibrator for a long time. Recently it has been mostly supplanted by cultured bumblebees.

When pollination is needed on a large scale, such as for field crops, orchards or commercial seed production, honeybees or other pollinators are cultured and provided for pollination management.

The primary reason for hand pollination is lack of pollinators which may be due to crops being moved from home areas (as in vanilla beans) without also taking the natural pollinator. Pollinator decline or the concentrated pollination needs of monoculture may also be factors in pollination shortage.

Another reason for hand pollination is in order to control the parents of the seed to be produced. For example, all F1 hybrids are the result of pollinating one specific variety with another specific variety, in order to produce a uniform crop.
For pest prevention with some high-value crops, row covers of mesh are used to prevent pest insects from access to the plants. However, this may necessitate hand pollination when bloom starts.

Hand pollination is used with date palms to avoid wasting a lot of space and energy growing sufficient male plants for adequate natural pollination.
Variable techniques for hand pollination have arisen for many specialty crops.

Cucumber Pickling Varieties

2008-06-02T19:49:00.001-07:00

Classy Hybrid Pickling Cucumbers
High Yields and Excellent Disease Resistance

Predominately female plants bear tons of uniform 6-8” cucumbers. Deep green and thin skinned, Classy is a top choice for pickling. Approx. 35 seeds per pkt. 57 Days.

Bush Pickle Hybrid Pickling Cucumber
Plants Spread Just 2 1/2-3 Feet

The compact choice for small gardens and containers is Bush Pickle Hybrid Pickling Cucumber! Bears early, white-spined, 5-inch cukes in half the space needed by most vines. Cool, mild flavor. Scab, mosaic tolerant. 45 DAYS.

Slicing cucumbers grow long and smooth; picklers are blockier and faster to produce. Both can be packed into jars, however, when harvested at a small size.

Note: ‘Gynoecious’ cukes bear only female flowers for heavier production. But you need to plant another variety nearby to ensure pollination. We include seeds of a pollinator variety with all gynoecious cucumber seeds.

Classy Hybrid Pickling Cucumbers
High Yields and Excellent Disease Resistance

Predominately female plants bear tons of uniform 6-8” cucumbers. Deep green and thin skinned, Classy is a top choice for pickling. Approx. 35 seeds per pkt. 57 Days.

Cool Breeze IMP Hybrid Pickling Cucumber
No Bees Needed!

Noted for its cool fresh flavor and thin skin. Harvest at 4 in. or smaller for gourmet pickles. Also a great slicer at larger sizes. Very early maturing Cool Breeze is at home in many growing areas. Approx. 25 seeds per pkt.
45 DAYS.

Eureka Hybrid Pickling Cucumber
Perfect Pickler Or Slicer!

Vigorous Eureka Hybrid Pickling Cucumbers bear loads of deep green, dual-purpose cukes. Use 2 to 4-in. size for pickling, 7-inch for slicing. 57 DAYS.

Slicing cucumbers grow long and smooth; picklers are blockier and faster to produce. Both can be packed into jars, however, when harvested at a small size.

Note: ‘Gynoecious’ cukes bear only female flowers for heavier production. But you need to plant another variety nearby to ensure pollination. We include seeds of a pollinator variety with all gynoecious cucumber seeds.

Cucumber Slicing Varieties

2008-05-31T14:44:00.000-07:00

Straight Eight Slicing Cucumber
Our Most Popular Cucumber!

Gurney's Choice Tip-top slicing cuke is perfectly straight! Straight Eight Slicing Cucumber has dark green, 8-inch fruits--a remarkably uniform 2 1/2 inches across--with a small seed cavity and crisp, fine-grained flesh. 65 DAYS.

Slicing cucumbers grow long and smooth; picklers are blockier and faster to produce. Both can be packed into jars, however, when harvested at a small size.

Note: ‘Gynoecious’ cukes bear only female flowers for heavier production. But you need to plant another variety nearby to ensure pollination. We include seeds of a pollinator variety with all gynoecious cucumber seeds.

Sweet Success Hybrid Slicing Cucumber
Early, Seedless and Acid Free

Gurney's Choice Crisp, mild and easy on the digestion. Sweet Success Hybrid has gynoecious vines tolerate scab and mosaic virus, produce firm 14-inch fruits . 54 DAYS.

Slicing cucumbers grow long and smooth; picklers are blockier and faster to produce. Both can be packed into jars, however, when harvested at a small size.

Note: ‘Gynoecious’ cukes bear only female flowers for heavier production. But you need to plant another variety nearby to ensure pollination. We include seeds of a pollinator variety with all gynoecious cucumber seeds

Early Spring Burpless Hybrid Slicing Cucumber
Big Yields of Bitter-Free Fruit

Prolific and early! Early Spring Burpless Hybrid Slicing Cucumbers have creamy-spined dark green fruits, 12-15 inches long. Bright white flesh is extra crisp and mild. 52 DAYS.

Slicing cucumbers grow long and smooth; picklers are blockier and faster to produce. Both can be packed into jars, however, when harvested at a small size.

Note: ‘Gynoecious’ cukes bear only female flowers for heavier production. But you need to plant another variety nearby to ensure pollination. We include seeds of a pollinator variety with all gynoecious cucumber seeds.

Sweeter Yet Hybrid Slicing Cucumber
Big, Sweet and Burpless

Sweeter Yet Hybrid Slicing Cucumber is bigger, sweeter and more productive than standard burpless slicers. Dark green cukes, 10-12 inches long, have thin skin and size up fast. 48 DAYS.

Slicing cucumbers grow long and smooth; picklers are blockier and faster to produce. Both can be packed into jars, however, when harvested at a small size.

Note: ‘Gynoecious’ cukes bear only female flowers for heavier production. But you need to plant another variety nearby to ensure pollination. We include seeds of a pollinator variety with all gynoecious cucumber seeds.

Burpless Hybrid Slicing Cucumber
The Mildest on the Market

Eat it skin and all! Burpless Hybrid Slicing Cucumber is best at 9-10 inches but hold well when larger. Stands heat and humidity, resists mildew. 60 DAYS.

Slicing cucumbers grow long and smooth; picklers are blockier and faster to produce. Both can be packed into jars, however, when harvested at a small size.

Note: ‘Gynoecious’ cukes bear only female flowers for heavier production. But you need to plant another variety nearby to ensure pollination. We include seeds of a pollinator variety with all gynoecious cucumber seeds.

Sweeter Yet Hybrid Slicing Cucumber
Big, Sweet and Burpless

Sweeter Yet Hybrid Slicing Cucumber is bigger, sweeter and more productive than standard burpless slicers. Dark green cukes, 10-12 inches long, have thin skin and size up fast. 48 DAYS.

Slicing cucumbers grow long and smooth; picklers are blockier and faster to produce. Both can be packed into jars, however, when harvested at a small size.

Note: ‘Gynoecious’ cukes bear only female flowers for heavier production. But you need to plant another variety nearby to ensure pollination. We include seeds of a pollinator variety with all gynoecious cucumber seeds.

Soaps Used as Insecticides

2008-05-30T17:43:00.001-07:00

Photograph courtesy of Judy Sedbrook.

Information provided by Whitney Cranshaw, Colorado State University Cooperative Extension specialist, entomology

Soaps have long been used for control of insects and mites. Several "insecticidal" soaps are sold at nurseries and through garden catalogs. These soaps control a variety of garden pests. In addition, some soft hand soaps and liquid dish washing detergents can kill insects. In general, soaps tend to kill small, soft-bodied insects and mites, such as aphids, newly hatched scales (crawlers) and plant bugs.

Insecticidal soaps are used as dilute sprays, typically at a 2 percent dilution -- or about 2 teaspoons per pint. Their advantages are a high degree of safety to the applicator and other "non-target" species, minimal adverse effects to beneficial insects and ease of use. Soaps also have some limitations:

Plants must be covered thoroughly because soaps are effective only if they make contact with the insect.

The treatment doesn't last long. If the insects aren't killed at or soon after application, they'll still be a problem.

Some kinds of plants are injured by soap. If you're using insecticidal soap, check the label for a list of plants that won't tolerate this application.

Soaps work best when applied in soft (or softened) water, preferably during cooler periods when drying is slowed.

TEMPERATURE AND STRAWBERRIES

2008-05-27T18:17:00.001-07:00

Temperature has a major influence on strawberry physiology and can override day length as the control mechanism for flowering. If temperatures drop too low vegetative growth is inhibited causing poor flower and fruit formation. Conversely if temperatures are too high strawberry plants will wilt and stop producing flowers and fruit.

Strawberries grown from seed will usually take two to three years to mature. Early in the season, after risk of frost is over, purchase cold-stored runners from your local nursery. Always use runners that are certified virus tested. Cold stored runners are off-shoots of a mature strawberry plant (also known as a mother plant) that have been snipped off and rooted, forming a clone of the original strawberry plant. They are kept in cold storage through the winter. Ideally the runners you choose will be in flower or have buds visible.

There are several different types of strawberries suitable to various climates and zones. The long-day-type typically grown in northern regions are light and climate sensitive. Flower and fruit production is triggered by the long hours of spring and early summer light received by the plant. Once introduced to a warm climate, plants will continuously produce an abundance of flowers. Temperature also affects fruit's flavour and sugar content.

Conditions can easily be simulated indoors, out-of-season. Once plants have finished fruiting and produced runners, clip the runners from the mother plant and root using conventional rooting methods.

SUMMERSTRAWBERRIES

2008-05-27T17:33:00.000-07:00

One of the highlights of early summer is the sweet juicy taste of a fresh picked strawberry.
Strawberries are members of the Rose family (Rosaceae, genus Fragaria) which also includes other fragrant and flavourful species such as apples, pears, plums and cherries. Originally the succulent berries were called strew-berries for the way the runners and berries grew strewn across the ground. However, as so often happens with the English language, the name gradually evolved to strawberries.

Strawberries are not really berries or fruit in the "botanical" sense (i.e., the end result of a fertilized plant ovum). A strawberry is actually an "aggregate fruit" -- the "real" fruit are the objects we think of as the "strawberry seed" -- properly called "achenes" -- which are fruits in the same way that a raw sunflower seed with it's tough shell is a fruit. The "berry" is actually an "enlarged receptacle" and is not reproductive material. As a result, strawberries must be picked at full ripeness, as they cannot not ripen once picked.

Rich in vitamin C, iron, potassium and fiber strawberries have also been credited as having cancer fighting compounds. For hundreds of years homeopathic practitioners have incorporated strawberry plants and fruit in the treatment of anemia, diabetes, rheumatic gout, and kidney and liver complaints. Fresh strawberry removes tarter and teeth stains, soothes sunburn and lightens freckles. Strawberry liqueurs, preserves and jellies are widely used worldwide. The average American consumes more than 1.4 kg. (3lb.) of strawberries per year.

There are different categories of strawberries. The ones most commonly found in our hemisphere are the long-day-type. They flower in response to the long daylight hours of June, fruit in July then flower again, usually yielding little or no fruit from the second flowering.

CANTALOUPE

2008-05-25T20:30:00.000-07:00

Selection

Cantaloupe should be sturdy, round, fragrant and feel heavy for its size. It should also be a tan-yellow color beneath the web-like bumps on its rind. Cantaloupe does not ripen once it is picked so select a melon that yields slightly to gentle pressure at the stem end (the stem should be cleanly removed). Avoid cantaloupe with a cracked, bruised or softened rind.

Storage

Despite the fact that cantaloupe does not technically ripen once it is harvested, it will soften at room temperature for a day or two (the flavor will not change). The whole melon will refrigerate up to five days; a sliced cantaloupe will refrigerate up to three days.

Preparation

Wash the cantaloupe?s rind before slicing it in half. This will prevent dirt transferring to the fleshy inside during the cut. Scoop the seeds and strings out of each melon halve. Continue cutting the cantaloupe into snack-sized slices or scoop its flesh with a melon baller for salads. Flavor the melon with citrus juice or sugar if desired. Cantaloupe is a tasty addition to smoothies, fruit salads or chilled soup.

Nutrition

Cantaloupe has the highest beta-carotene content of all melons.
Serving size ? medium melon (134g)

--------------------------%DV
Calories 50
Calories from Fat 0
Total Fat 0g ------------- 0%
Saturated Fat 0g --------- 0%
Cholesterol 0mg ---------- 0%
Sodium 35mg -------------- 1%
Total Carbohydrate 13g --- 4%
Dietary Fiber 1g --------- 4%
Sugars 12g
Protein 1g
Vitamin A ----------------80%
Vitamin C ----------------80%
Calcium ------------------2%
Iron ---------------------2%

Copyright © 2008 Consumer Effects, Inc. The Kroger Co.

Our Garden- Updated

2008-05-23T15:13:00.000-07:00

Earlier Garden Picture

We started our plants from seeds in March and placed them in our small indoor greenhouse that I had purchased this year, keeping light on them to help them flourish into plants. Then in April when they had began to grow we then took them outside to grow in our larger outdoor greenhouse. After what we thought was to be the last freeze we planted them.

Little did we know that there would be one more mild freeze, so hearing of the chance that it would possibly get close to freezing we covered most of the plants with the plastic containers that we had cut the plants out of. Still we lost a few of our squash plants, lucky for us everything else survived.

Last year was our first garden and hopefully we will learn each year how to make our garden flourish even more than the year before. That is why we bought the indoor and outdoor hothouses, realizing that we don't get all the sun we need, they help give our plants a head start on the growing season.

Now our outside greenhouse is used for growing our Bhut Jolokia hot peppers, starting flowers and later to begin preparing for our winter fruit, vegetable and flowers.

One day our landscaping around our house will be covered with all the flowers that we grew ourselves or started from bulbs.

TOMATOES___LETTUCES___POTATOES___CORN___CUCUMBERS___BHUT JOLOKIA

The vegetables in this picture are of just a few of the plants that we have been growing in our garden this year. I can hardly wait until we can start eating them and freezing them for stir fry meal and such.

Stay tuned for more updated pictures of our vegetables garden!

Written By: Rita Arano

Bhut Jolokia Pepper's Update

2008-05-22T20:08:00.000-07:00

A First Time Growers Experience
By: Jason Wimbs

The record breaking bhut jolokia ,toting the certificate from Guinness for the hottest pepper on earth, has drawn attention from gardeners and hot pepper lovers like myself around the world. Starting with 50 bhut jolokia seeds and a small hothouse, a blog and no money, this is a part of a record of growth the a plant from India that has stirred the imagination of many.

Feb 4 08

50 bhut jolokia seeds arrive in the mail. Armed with a seedling heating pad and a small hothouse as well as a desire to burn my lips off, I plant the seeds in a seedling starter kit I bought at K-mart. During planting, a spot under my eye feels like it has battery acid on it. I must have rubbed some capsacin on it. I think these seeds are the real deal!

Feb 20 08

After 15 days in a small hothouse only 4 seeds have sprouted and I wonder if I got bunk seeds. My visions of a crop of the red hot peppers are not gone. After more research I discover that all chiles are slow to germinate. The temperature of the hothouse is kept between 70 and 90 deg.Fer.

March 20 08
Now about 40 of the bhut jolokia seeds have sprouted to the height of 2-3". I learn of the process called 'hardening off'. Plants grown in greenhouses develop large thin walled cells. This makes the plant weak to outdoor elements. So out they go during the day in at night to acclimate them slowly to the elements. I kill 10 plants during the process.

April 19 08

Down to 30 bhut jolokia plants to the height of 7", I figure I have enough to sell and list them on e-bay selling none. Continued research reveals that these red hot pepper plants are not for my zone(7). So I keep them in a small outdoor hothouse, hoping to create the climate of India in northern CA.

May 08

Summary to date.
Without discouraging anyone from growing these fiery pods I share the following.
Mid May brought a 'cold snap' to Northern ca. The temperature in the greenhouse fell to 45 deg. I lost another 10 plants.
Thinking I would give them a boost I crushed up 10-10-10 slow release fertilizer and damaged another 10.
I'm down to about 15 plants and 5 "trophy plants"(8" plants with deep green growth).
So good luck to all and any feed-back is welcome!

Eggplants

2008-05-21T15:26:00.000-07:00

Eggplant/Aubergine Season
By Jennifer A. Wickes

Eggplants are members of the Nightshade family. Other members include potatoes, tomatoes and peppers. Despite the fact the culinary world treats eggplants like a vegetable, in biology, an eggplant is a fruit . Varieties include, but are not limited to: Japanese/Asian, Italian/Baby, White Beauty, Black Beauty, Burpee Hybrid and Early Beauty. Depending on these varieties, their colors range from white to a deep purple, they range in size from 2 to 12 inches (5-30 cm) and they can be oblong to round in shape.

History / Geography: Eggplants are native to China and India. They are believed to have been introduced to the Europeans by the Arabs.

Varieties/Season: July through October

How to Choose: Choose eggplants that are firm to the touch, have a smooth and shiny skin and are heavy. Avoid eggplants with brown or soft spots and have a dull color.

How to Store: Store in a cool dry place, but avoid placing near tomatoes and apples as they give off a gas that enhances the ripening process. Use the eggplant within 2 days. If necessary, the eggplant may be kept in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for as long as 5 days.

Cooking Hints
(1) Do not cook in an aluminum pan. Aluminum makes eggplants discolor.
(2) The skin is edible in younger eggplants. Remove the peel in older eggplants.

(3) Cut each fruit before using, just like bananas. The flesh of the fruit will brown.

(4) Eggplant absorbs oil very easily; coat your eggplant with breadcrumbs, cornmeal or flour first before frying.

(5) To help reduce the bitter flavor in older eggplants, slice the eggplant into ½ inch pieces and salt heavily. Weigh down each slice in a colander and allow for the liquid to drain out of the eggplant for 30 minutes. Rinse each slice with cold water and pat dry. This method is called "dégorgeing". It is best to use this method before frying.

(6) In order to bake your eggplant, slice your eggplant in half. Score across the interior of each half. Add tiny slices of garlic to go into each score. Salt each half, and bake in a 400-degree oven for 30 minutes. The eggplant is done when it is nicely browned and tender when pierced.

(7) When wanting to roast your eggplant, cut your eggplant into 1/2 inch slices. Toss in olive oil, salt, pepper and any of the other suggested spices below. Arrange the eggplant in a single layer in a baking dish (not aluminum). Bake at 400 degrees for 30 minutes. The eggplant is done when it is nicely browned and tender when pierced.

Spices: Basil, chervil, cumin, garlic, mace, marjoram, nutmeg, oregano, parsley, sage, savory, sesame seed, tarragon, thyme

Equivalents / Substitutions: 1 pound = 3 1/2 cup diced raw = 1 3/4 cup diced cooked = 4 servings

Nutritional Values: Eggplants contain Vitamin C and Potassium. Other than these two nutrients, eggplants do not have a significant nutrient value. Eggplants also have anti-bacterial, diuretic effects, as well as flavonoids (cancer fighting anti-oxidants). 1 cup cooked contains 25 calories.

Suggested Wines: Depending on how you fix your eggplant, try drinking a Chardonnay, a Grenache Rosé or a Zinfandel.

Eggplant Parmigiana
6 Servings

2 eggplants, unpeeled, cut into 1/4-inch rounds
2 eggs, lightly beaten
1 1/2-cups breadcrumbs
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper
1 garlic clove, peeled and halved
3/4 cup olive oil
20 ounces canned tomatoes
1/3 cup tomato paste
2 tablespoons minced fresh basil
1 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1/2 pound mozzarella cheese, thinly sliced

DIP EGGPLANT SLICES IN EGGS, then in breadcrumbs seasoned with salt and pepper. Refrigerate 20 minutes. In a large saucepan, saute garlic in 2 tablespoons oil for 1-2 minutes. Remove garlic and add tomatoes, tomato paste, basil, salt and pepper. Cover and simmer 30 minutes. Preheat oven to 350F. Brown eggplant in 1/4-inch oil in a large skillet. Drain on paper towels. Put a thin layer of tomato sauce into a baking dish and layer eggplant, sauce, Parmesan and mozzarella, alternately. End with mozzarella on top. Bake, uncovered, for 30 minutes.
Source: Public domain recipes converted from Meal Master format

Ratatouille
6 Servings
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium dice eggplant
3 cups tomato concasse
3 cups medium dice zucchini
2 cups medium dice onions
2 cups medium dice, seeded green bell peppers
1 tablespoon minced garlic
2 tablespoons minced parsley

Heat the olive oil in a large skillet, over a medium-moderate flame. Add the remaining ingredients (except parsley). Heat and stir for 8- 10 minutes until softened, without browning. Add parsley-mix well. Arrange onto a serving platter. Serve warm, with crostini to the side.
Source: TJ Hill - Appetites Catered

This article was originally published at Suite 101.
Copyright 2001 Jennifer Wickes

2008-05-19T19:22:00.000-07:00

Growing Cucumbers in the Home Garden
HYG-1608-93
Pamela J. Bennett

Cucumbers, either for pickling or slicing, have become one of the most popular planted crops in today's home garden. Despite the fact that they require substantial growing space, they can still be grown in small gardens by training vines onto vertical structures that conserve garden space. They may also be grown in containers. The cucumber ranges in size from the small gherkin type to the long, thin slicing variety. There are also yellow and fruited varieties. As a gardener you can choose from the many varieties available to suit your needs.

Cucumbers are a subtropical crop, requiring long warm days, plenty of sunshine and balmy nights. Many new varieties have shorter growing seasons making them ideal for the short summers in our area.

Vines bear two kinds of flowers, pistillate (female) and staminate (male). The first flowers are staminate, will drop from the vine and will not bear fruit. Subsequent flowers will include both male and female and pollination will occur. Recently, gynoecious plants (those bearing female flowers only) have been introduced. The seed packet will have specifically marked seeds indicating that the marked seeds must be planted as well for proper pollination.

Climate Requirements
Cucumbers thrive best at relatively high temperatures, 65-75 degrees F being the ideal temperature range. The plants do not tolerate a frost. Since it is a quick-growing crop, it must be well supplied with moisture and plant nutrient elements throughout the growing season.

Soils
Cucumbers can be grown successfully in many types of soils. The preferred soil is loose, well-drained and well supplied with organic matter and plant nutrient elements. Work in organic matter such as well-rotted manure or compost before planting. The soil pH should be between 6.0 and 7.0.

Fertilizers
Lime and fertilizers are best applied using soil test results as a guide. Contact your county Extension office for information on soil testing. Prior to planting, you should add a complete fertilizer such as 5-10-10 or similar analysis according to label recommendations. One week after blossoming begins, and again three weeks later, use a high nitrogen fertilizer to side-dress the hills. Do not over fertilize as this encourages vine growth and retards fruiting.

Establishing the Planting
You can gain growing time by starting the plants indoors 10 to 14 days before anticipated planting time. Use peat pots or pellets and avoid disturbing roots when transplanting. Planting outside should be delayed until the danger of frost has passed in the spring. Cucumber seeds can be planted in hills consisting of four or five seeds per hill spaced at 4 to 5 feet apart. They can also be planted in rows 2 to 3 feet apart with rows 5 to 6 feet apart. Certain varieties make excellent container plants.

Some suggested varieties for Ohio gardens are Sweet Slice Burpless, Straight 8, Poinsett, Dasher II and Marketmore 80 for slicing. Boston Pickling are good for pickles and Bushmaster and Spacemaster are good for container gardening. Unusual varieties include Lemon, a small yellow type, and Armenian, a long, slender, sweet variety. There are many new and excellent hybrid varieties available as well. Refer to the end of this fact sheet for varieties and their characteristics.

Cultural Practices
Applied mulches can conserve soil moisture, prevent soil compaction and rotting of the fruit, and help suppress weeds. Black plastic mulch can be a valuable aid in keeping the soil moist and minimizing weed problems.

Weeds, insects and diseases must be controlled in the planting. Cucumber beetles, aphids, mites, pickle worms, bacterial wilt, anthracnose, powdery and downy mildew, and angular leaf spot are potential problems in the cucumber-pickle planting. The early and continuous control of the cucumber beetle is critical to success in growing cucumbers. The cucumber beetle can infect the plant with bacterial wilt as early as the cotyledon stage, when seedlings are just emerging from the ground. Bacterial wilt causes plants to wilt and die. Avoid using insecticides in the garden when pollinating insects such as bees are working the flowers.

Harvesting
Cucumbers are ready for harvest 50 to 70 days from planting. Depending on their use, harvest on the basis of size. Cucumbers should not be allowed to reach the yellowish stage as they become bitter with size. Harvest by cutting the stem 1/4 inch above the fruit. Don't trample the vines any more than necessary to harvest the crop.

Frequent picking of cucumbers is essential as they grow and reach optimum quality. Delayed harvest results in reduced quality products and less productive plants because fruiting is an exhaustive process for the plant.

Straight Eight - Heavy yield of smooth, 8-inch long straight and smooth cucumber, dark skin and pure white flesh.

Spacemaster - Excellent for baskets on containers, 7-1/2 inch dark green fruits, mosaic and scab tolerant.

Seman - Sunny yellow skin, lemon shaped and lemon sized cucumbers, crisp and mild.

Sweet Slice Burpless - mild 10 to 12-inch fruits, never bitter, resists several diseases.

Bush Pickle Hybrid - 2-1/2 to 3-inch plants, early crop of white-spined 5-inch fruits.

Vegetable Beans

2008-05-12T18:41:00.001-07:00

There are a variety of different beans you can grow in the garden. All taste great when freshly picked.

As well as green pod beans there are purple and yellow varieties you can try. Haricot beans are grown for seeds rather than the pods.

Runner Beans
Site and Soil
Well-prepared fertile soil, moisture retentive but not soggy, in sun.

Dig plenty of well-rotted manure, compost or leaf-mould into the soil to improve moisture retention and improve fertility. Neutral or slightly acid soils produce best crops.

A trench prepared the previous autumn will provide a good, nutrient rich site for beans, but if you only get around to making the trench at planting time in spring, it is still worth while.

Sowing Seed
Beans are not generally hardy and the soil must be warm before sowing or the seeds will not germinate.

Sowing Outdoors
Sow outdoors from 2 weeks before the last frost, in late spring to early summer.

Place the canes for supporting the plants in the ground 30cm (12in) apart, with 60cm (2ft) between double rows. Sow two seeds 5cm (2in) deep at the base of each support - you can thin out the weaker plant and have a more even and productive harvest.

Germination can take 6 to 15 days. Sow every two to three weeks to provide a succession of supply.

Sowing Under Cover
Sow indoors from mid- to late-spring in individual 8cm (3in) pots.

Beans can be started undercover but should be transplanted carefully. It is best to sow directly into the garden. Pairs of seeds sown into a 'newspaper' or milk carton pot (see Growing from Seed), removing the weaker plant after germination. Plant newspaper pot and all when the soil warms, milk cartons should be slit and removed before planting.

Timing
Sow seeds outdoors from late spring to early summer.

Sow indoors from mid- to late-spring

To avoid them coming ripe at once, sow seeds succession ally resulting in a smaller crop at any one time but longer period of supply

Care
You can plant in blocks and grow up the plants up a wigwam of sticks such as our 'beanhouse' frame. The support you choose depends on the amount of space available and the style of your garden.

Watch for slugs when the seeds first germinate, as these can devastate your crop before it gets underway.

Protect the seeds and plants from birds, especially in the initial period of growth.

Harden off seedlings started under cover and plant out from late spring to summer, once late frosts are over.

Plant out 23cm (9in) apart in a single row, with rows 45cm (18in) apart.

A wigwam of canes or supports, each 25-30cm (10-12in) apart is ideal. Loosely tie the plants to the supports when planting and then they will climb unaided. When the plants reach the top of the canes, pinch out the growing tips.

Keep the ground weeded and a generous regular watering after the flowers appear is the key to success, especially if combined with good soil preparation.

After the first crop, remove the lower leaves and drop the plants to the ground, new growth will produce a second crop.

Harvesting
Summer to early autumn. Pick once the pods begin to swell for tender beans.

Pick regularly to encourage a longer and more continuous supply.

Harvest Lima beans when the pods swell and show the bulge of the beans inside.

Haricot beans are left until the pods turn yellow and then the entire plant hung up to dry. The bean seeds are collected when the pods have become brittle.

As with peas and other pod crops, the more you pick, the more you get.

Days to Harvest Approximately 55 to 75 days. Bush beans harvest earlier than climbing beans, but climbing beans have higher yields and a longer season.

French Beans
Climbing French beans are grown in the same way as runner beans and crop over a longer period than dwarf French beans. As well as green pod beans there are purple and yellow varieties you can try. Haricot beans are grown for seeds rather than the pods.

Dwarf French beans are good small-space plants, and especially suited to deep-bed cultivation. You can grow them in a container on your terrace or balcony, or take the pot to the bach with you from the holidays!

Site and Soil
Open, sunny site, with good drainage and that has been well-cultivated. Neutral or slightly acid soils produce best crops.

Squash Varieties (Part 4 of 4)

2008-05-12T18:25:00.001-07:00

Spaghetti (also called vegetable spaghetti, vegetable marrow, noodle squash or squaghetti) - A small, watermelon-shaped variety, ranges in size from 2 to 5 pounds or more. It has a golden-yellow, oval rind and a mild, nutlike flavor. When cooked, the flesh separates in strands that resemble spaghetti pasta. The yellowest Spaghetti squash will be the ripest and best to eat. Those that are nearly white are not very ripe.
To prepare spaghetti squash, cut the gourd in half lengthwise and remove the seeds, then bake or boil it until tender. Or, wrap it in plastic wrap and microwave on high for 10 to 12 minutes. Once cooked, use a fork to rake out the "spaghetti-like" stringy flesh, and serve.
Spaghetti Squash can be stored at room temperature for about a month. After cutting, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate up to 2 days. Spaghetti squash also freezes well.
Available year-round - season early fall through winter.

Sweet Dumpling - This small, mildly sweet-tasting squash resembles a miniature pumpkin with its top pushed in. Weighing only about 7 ounces, it has sweet and tender orange flesh and is a great size for stuffing and baking as individual servings. Sweet dumplings are tiny but great for roasting and presenting whole.
Available throughout the fall.

Turban - Turban Squash has colors that vary from bright orange, to green or white. It has golden-yellow flesh and its taste is reminiscent to hazelnut. Has a bulb like cap swelling from its blossom end, come in bizarre shapes with extravagant coloration that makes them popular as harvest ornamentals. It is popular for centerpieces, and its top can be sliced off so it can be hollowed and filled with soup. A larger variety of the buttercup squash, the turban has a bright orange-red rind. The turban-like swirl on its blossom end is a fanciful variegated orange, red and white. Its flesh and storage ability are comparable to the buttercup's.
Available year-round - season is late summer through early fall.

Equivalents:
Allow 1/3 pound per person.
One pound of winter squash equals about 2 cups of cooked, mashed squash.
One medium-size (15 to 20 pounds) pumpkin will yield 5 to 7 quarts of cooked pumpkin.

To Store:
Place squash on top of thick pads of newspapers in a cool, dry, well-ventilated location. Check on a regular basis for rot and use within three to six months.
Refrigerate tightly wrapped cut pieces of winter squash, such as banana, and use within five days.

To Prepare:
Winter squash matures on the vine and develops an inedible, thick, hard rind and tough seeds. Because this rind makes most squash difficult to peel, it's easier to cook the unpeeled squash, and then scoop out the cooked flesh. Wash the exterior of the squash just before using. The seeds are scooped out before or after cooking.
To cut in half, grasp the squash firmly and use a sharp knife to slice through to the center. Then flip and cut the other side until the squash falls open. Remove and discard the seeds.
To bake a whole (1 to 1 1/2 pound) winter squash, pierce the rind with a fork and bake in a 350-degree oven 45 minutes. Test for doneness by piercing with a fork.
Boil or steam quarters or rings 25 minutes or until tender.

Sources:

A Primer on Winter Squash, North Coast Cooperative.

The Sweet & Savory Sides of Winter Squash, by Ris Lacoste, Taunton Press.

Winter Squash Good Keepers in Produce Department, by Patricia Aaron, Sept. 24, 2003.

Wonderful Winter Squash, by Terra Brockman, Conscious Choice, October 2002.

Squash Varieties (Part 3 of 4)

2008-05-12T18:19:00.001-07:00

Gold Nugget - A variety of winter squash, which is sometimes referred to as an Oriental pumpkin that has the appearance of a small pumpkin in shape and color. It ranges in size from one to three pounds. Golden nugget squashes are small, weighing on average about 1 pound. Both the skin and the flesh are orange.
Gold Nugget Squash may be cooked whole or split lengthwise (removing seeds). Pierce whole squash in several places, and bake halved squash hollow side up.
Available year-round - is best season is late summer through early winter.

Hubbard - The extra-hard skins make them one of the best keeping winter squashes. These are very large and irregularly shaped, with a skin that is quite "warted" and irregular. They range from big to enormous, have a blue/gray skin, and taper at the ends. Like all winter garden squash, they have an inedible skin, large, fully developed seeds that must be scooped out, and a dense flesh.
Hubbard squash is often sold in pieces because it can grow to cumbersome sizes. The yellow flesh of these tends to be very moist and longer cooking times in the oven are needed. They are generally peeled and boiled, cut up and roasted, or cut small and steamed or sautéed. It's perfect for pies.
Hubbard squash, if in good condition initially, can be successfully stored 6 months at 50 to 55 degree F. with 70% relative humidity. A 15% loss in weight from shrinkage for 6 months storage would be average. Less rot will develop in the Hubbard squash if stems are completely removed before storage. Hubbard squash and other dark-green-skinned squashes should not be stored near apples, as the ethylene from apples may cause the skin to turn orange-yellow.
Available year-round - peak season is early fall throughout winter.

Kabocha (Also known as a Ebisu, Delica, Hoka, Hokkaido, or Japanese Pumpkin) - Kabocha is the generic Japanese word for squash, but refers most commonly to a squash of the buttercup type.
Kobocha Squash may be cooked whole or split lengthwise (removing seeds). It has a rich sweet flavor, and often dry and flaky when cooked. Use in any dish in which buttercup squash would work.
Available year-round.

Sources:

A Primer on Winter Squash, North Coast Cooperative.

The Sweet & Savory Sides of Winter Squash, by Ris Lacoste, Taunton Press.

Winter Squash Good Keepers in Produce Department, by Patricia Aaron, Sept. 24, 2003.

Wonderful Winter Squash, by Terra Brockman, Conscious Choice, October 2002.

Squash Varieties (Part 2 of 4)

2008-05-12T18:12:00.000-07:00

Butternut - Easily found in supermarkets. Beige colored and shaped like a vase. This is a more watery squash and tastes somewhat similar to sweet potatoes. It has a bulbous end and pale, creamy skin, with a choice, fine-textured, deep-orange flesh with a sweet, nutty flavor. It weighs from 2 to 5 pounds. The oranger the color, the riper, drier and sweeter the squash.
Available year-round - peak season lasts from early fall through winter.

Buttercup - Buttercup Squash are part of the Turban squash family (hard shells with turban-like shapes) and are a popular variety of winter squash.
Has a sweet and creamy orange flesh. This squash is much sweeter than other winter varieties. Buttercup Squash can be baked, mashed, pureed, steamed,simmered, or stuffed and can replace Sweet Potatoes in most recipes.

Carnival Squash - Cream colored with orange spots or pale green with dark green spots in vertical stripes - coloration sometimes divided part and part - golden flesh. Carnival Squash have hard, thick skins and only the flesh is eaten.
The delicious yellow meat is reminiscent of sweet potatoes and butternut squash and can be baked or steamed then combined with butter and fresh herbs.
Available year-round - is best late summer through early fall.

Delicata - Also called Sweet Potato, Peanut squash, and Bohemian squash. This is one of the tastier winter squashes, with creamy pulp that tastes a bit like sweet potatoes. Size may range from 5 to 10 inches in length. The squash can be baked or steamed The skin is also edible.
The Delicata squash is actually an heirloom variety, a fairly recent reentry into the culinary world. It was originally introduced by the Peter Henderson Company of New York City in 1894, and was popular through the 1920s. Then it fell into obscurity for about seventy-five years, possibly because of its thinner, more tender skin, which isn't suited to transportation over thousands of miles and storage over months.
Available year-round - is best late summer through early fall.

Fairytail Pumpkin - French name is "Musquee de Provence." The 4fruits are flattened like a cheese but each rib makes a deep convolution. The Fairytale Pumpkin is a very unique eating and ornamental pumpkin plants . It's thick but tender, and the deep orange flesh is very flavored, sweet , thick, and firm. It is 115 to 125 day pumpkin and takes a long time to turn to it's cheese color. The distinctive coach-like shape and warm russet color make it perfect for fall decorating too.
This pumpkin is usually used for baking. Cut it into pieces and bake in the oven.
Available September to November.

Sources:

A Primer on Winter Squash, North Coast Cooperative.

The Sweet & Savory Sides of Winter Squash, by Ris Lacoste, Taunton Press.

Winter Squash Good Keepers in Produce Department, by Patricia Aaron, Sept. 24, 2003.

Wonderful Winter Squash, by Terra Brockman, Conscious Choice, October 2002.

Squash Varieties (Part 1 of 4)

2008-05-12T17:49:00.000-07:00

Acorn - Easily found in supermarkets. As its name suggests, this winter squash is shaped like an acorn. One of my favorite baking squashes, it's easy to slice into halves and fill with butter.. A small acorn squash weighs from 1 to 3 pounds, and has sweet, slightly fibrous flesh. Its distinct ribs run the length of its hard, blackish-green or golden-yellow skin. In addition to the dark green acorn, there are now golden and multi-colored varieties. Available year round

Ambercup - A relative of the buttercup squash that resembles a small pumpkin. Bright orange flesh has a dry sweet taste. Has an extraordinarily long storage life.
Available June to November.

Autumn Cup - A hybrid semi-bush buttercup dark green squash. Rich flavored flesh and high yields. Fruit size 6 inches with a weight of about 2 to 3 pounds.

Available September through December.

Banana - In shape and skin color, this winter squash is reminiscent of a banana. It grows up to two feet in length and about six inches in diameter. Its bright orange, finely-textured flesh is sweet. Banana squash is often available cut into smaller pieces. Available year-round - peak season lasts summer through early fall.

Sources:

A Primer on Winter Squash, North Coast Cooperative.

The Sweet & Savory Sides of Winter Squash, by Ris Lacoste, Taunton Press.

Winter Squash Good Keepers in Produce Department, by Patricia Aaron, Sept. 24, 2003.

Wonderful Winter Squash, by Terra Brockman, Conscious Choice, October 2002.

SQUASH

2008-05-12T15:23:00.000-07:00

Squash are fleshy vegetables protected by a hard rind. They belong to the plant family that includes melons and cucumbers. Among substances present in summer squash are these two phytochemicals, coumarins and flavonoids. The skin and rind of summer squash are rich in the nutrient beta-carotene, but the fleshy portion of this vegetable is not. To gain the full nutritional benefits of this vegetable, the skins or rinds must be eaten.

Squash has been a staple for the Native Americans for more than 5000 years, and was a mainstay for early European who settled in America. George Washington and Thomas Jefferson were enthusiastic squash growers. In the nineteenth century, merchant seamen returned from other parts of the Americas with many new varieties. This resulted in the various colors, shapes, and sizes that are available today.

Varieties
Even though some varieties grow on vines while others grow on bushes, squash are commonly divided into the two groups, summer and winter. There are several types of summer squash, but zucchini is the most popular summer squash purchased in the United States. Summer squash come in many different colors and shapes. The different varieties of squash can be used interchangeable in most recipes, because most squash are similar in texture and flavor.

How to Select
Choose squash that are firm and fairly heavy for their size, otherwise they may be dry and cottony inside. Look for squash that have bright, glossy exteriors. Avoid buying squash that have nicks or bruises on their skins or ones that have soft spots.

Storage
Place summer squash in plastic bags and store in the refrigerator. Fresh summer squash should keep for up to a week. Thicker-shinned varieties such as chayote will stay fresh for two weeks or longer.

Make Squash Part of Your 5 A Day Plan
It is easy to make summer squash part of your 5 A Day Plan, and even more so when you know it is free of fat, sodium, and cholesterol, and low in calories and high in vitamin C.
Try cooking several varieties of summer squash together. This will make a colorful side dish.
Try adding some of your favorite seasonings (dill, lemon juice or lemon pepper, Creole, chili powder) to summer squash that has been steamed, sautéed, or grilled.
Squash can be used to make great tasting casseroles or in fast stir fry.
Marinate and grill it on the grill what a great taste
Sliced or grated raw squash can be a wonderful addition to your favorite salad.
Add sliced squash with dried tomatoes to rice when you cook it.

Sources:

A Primer on Winter Squash, North Coast Cooperative.

The Sweet & Savory Sides of Winter Squash, by Ris Lacoste, Taunton Press.

Winter Squash Good Keepers in Produce Department, by Patricia Aaron, Sept. 24, 2003.

Wonderful Winter Squash, by Terra Brockman, Conscious Choice, October 2002.

Add yellow and zucchini squash to your next vegetable tray.
Grated summer squash makes a good substitute for carrots in a carrot cake.

Artichoke Growing Guide

2008-05-11T15:48:00.001-07:00

By Erika Myers-Russo

Soil preparation: Artichokes need rich soil to thrive. Each spring, mix compost into your artichoke bed. You may also want to mix in a granulated organic fertilizer with a balanced Nitrogen-Phosphorous-Potassium (NPK) level (follow package recommendations for application rates).

Planting: In mild climates, artichokes are grown as perennials, and they produce buds in the second growing season. To get artichoke buds the first year, gardeners in cooler climates must start with seeds and grow artichokes as annuals. The key is to trick the artichoke into behaving as if it has already made it through its first winter by exposing the young plants to a period of cool temperatures. That subterfuge is called vernalization. Start seedlings indoors 12 weeks before the last frost. Place the seedlings in a cold frame about 6 weeks before the last frost (the temperature should remain below 50 during these 6 weeks, so open the lid of the cold frame as needed to keep the temperature cool). Plant the seedlings outside when all danger of frost has past. In warmer climates, plant divisions or set out 6 week old seedlings when nighttime temperatures stay above 50 degrees consistently.

Spacing: Plant two feet apart.

Watering: Keep the soil evenly moist throughout the season.

Fertilizing: Fertilize monthly with a liquid organic fertilizer.

Special hints: You can keep your artichokes from one season to the next. In USDA Plant Hardiness Zones 7 and warmer, protect the plants with a thick mulch of straw. In colder regions, try this smart idea: Dig the roots in fall, shake off the dirt, and hang them in onion bags in a cool, dry place such as a root cellar. In spring, these more-mature root systems kick in right away when replanted in the garden.

Pest watch
Keep an eye out for aphids, caterpillars, slugs and snails.

Harvesting hints
You can harvest your artichokes any time after the flower buds form until they start to open. Artichoke flavor is not dependent on maturity the way it is with a tomato. Slice the buds off at the base using a sharp knife.

ARTICHOKES

2008-05-10T11:52:00.000-07:00

The artichoke is a member of a small thistle family that contains only one other cultivated species, the cardoon, and some believe that the artichoke is a cultivated version of the cardoon. Wild versions are found abundantly in the Mediterranean and to a lesser extent in the United States. The Jerusalem artichoke, which is not a true artichoke, is not related to either one.

A small, stubby fruit knife is used to cut artichokes from the stalks by hand, and then they are flung into large backpacks slung over the pickers' shoulders. Ideally, artichokes are picked before their leaves, or bracts, begin to separate and with a stem end about 3 to 4 inches long.

The artichoke looks impenetrable and intimidating, as does a pineapple, but unlike a pineapple, the meat of the artichoke is harder to find-and there's a lot less of it. Time spent cleaning and paring artichokes down before you cook them means you won't have to eat around those inedible parts after you cook them.

Italy is the largest artichoke-producing nation, followed by Spain (where most artichokes are canned), France, Argentina, Egypt, and the United States. The central coast of California is an ideal climate for an almost constant supply of artichokes, with its cool summers, mild winters, high humidity, and lower evening temperatures. California produces virtually 100 percent of America's artichoke crop, and consumes about half of that as well.

Selection & Storage
Artichokes can range in size from small or baby artichokes-2 or 3 ounces each-to jumbo artichokes that can weigh as much as twenty ounces each. Artichokes should be firm, compact, and heavy for their size, and have an even green color in the spring and summer. In late summer and fall, artichoke leaves tend to be flared rather than tightly closed, and may show some frost damage in the form of some light bronze/brown coloring on the outer leaves in the fall and winter. Artichokes that exhibit this "winter kiss" are considered to have superior flavor. Give them a squeeze, and if they squeak, you know they are fresh.

Baby artichokes can range in size from a small walnut to a large goose egg. Size is not an indication of age or quality, so use the same criteria to select baby artichokes as with the larger varieties.

Artichokes dehydrate rapidly so as soon as you get home, put them in plastic bags with a little sprinkle of water (not too much water or the artichokes will get moldy,) and store them in the vegetable bin of the refrigerator.

Refresh an artichoke that looks a little dehydrated by cutting the brown part off the bottom of the stem, and putting the artichoke in a bowl of water. Cooked or raw artichokes will keep about a week in the high-humidity bin of your refrigerator.

Preparation
Artichokes may be the most arduous of vegetables to prepare, depending on what you want to do with them and your level of patience. The simplest way is to lop off the stem so the artichoke sits upright, and then cut an inch or so off the top. You can then boil, steam, or microwave them, and then do the rest of the work by eating around the inedible parts. Broccoli stems and artichoke stems are often needlessly discarded. Peel and steam them with the rest of the artichoke, and then they can be eaten as is or chopped and put into stuffing to go inside prepared artichokes.

Prepare artichokes for stuffing by removing the stem as explained above, and then trim ½ inch or so from the tops of the outer leaves using scissors. This will eliminate the prickly needles that protrude from the tops of the leaves, and give a more attractive look. Cook using your method of choice. Pull back the leaves to uncover the inedible center portion, and scrape out the very inner leaves (called the cone) and the fuzzy choke. (This can be done while the artichoke is raw, but it is more difficult that way.)

Stuff the center of the cooked artichokes with breadcrumbs or sausage, and put some stuffing in between the leaves as well and bake. Steamed or boiled artichokes are delicious served cold when stuffed with a shrimp or crab salad.

Artichokes need to be completely edible to use for deep frying, or salads. Do this by removing the very bottom leaves, and slicing ½ inch off the bottom of the stem. Hold the artichoke in one hand with the thumb positioned on the bottom portion of each leaf, and bend back each leaf until it snaps naturally. Tear off the top part. As you get closer to the center of the artichoke, only pale green and yellow inner portions will show and the edible portion of each leaf will be larger. Remove anything that looks tough from the bottom portion of the artichoke, and taste if you're not sure. Trim any dark green portions, particularly from the bottom, with a sharp knife. Rub cut portions with a cut lemon to prevent discoloration. Halve the artichoke lengthwise and remove the inner cone and choke with a spoon. It is now ready to be used as is, cut it into quarters, or thinly sliced.

Baby artichokes require less preparation, because most don't have a fuzzy choke, and have fewer outer leaves to remove to get to the pale green and yellow inner portion. Use the same procedure as with large artichokes, and then leave whole, halve, or quarter for whatever type of dish you prefer.

I've always cooked artichokes in a fairly large pot of highly seasoned water, but recently I've found that they can be nicely steamed, upside down, in an inch of boiling water, without the use of a steaming rack.
Mayonnaise and hollandaise sauces, or variations of either, have been mainstays as artichoke dips, as well as vinaigrettes. Use light or fat free yogurt and mayonnaise mixed half, and half, for a reduced calorie sauce.

Artichoke Etiquette
Do you dread being served artichokes because you never learned how to eat them? Then the following tips are for you.

It is perfectly OK to pluck and eat artichoke leaves with your fingers; utensils are not necessary.

To eat the leaves, pull off a leaf by grabbing the pointed end. The wider end is a thin layer of edible flesh. Put about half of the wider, edible end of the leaf into your mouth and scrape off the flesh with your teeth. Repeat with each remaining leaf. The edible portion of the leaf becomes larger as you get closer to the center of the artichoke.

The leaves will become almost white with purple tips just before you get to the very center. Be careful of these leaves because their ends are prickly.

If the fuzzy patch/choke guarding the heart of the artichoke (considered the best part) hasn't been removed, scrape it off with a spoon or cut the heart away from it with a butter knife.

To eat with a dip such as a vinaigrette or mayonnaise, put a small part of the edible portion of the leaf in the dip and scrape as directed above. Don't overdo the dip or you won't taste the artichoke.